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Ice Ice Polo Robolop DesignPrinted From: the12volt.comForum Name: Rides and Systems Gallery Forum Discription: Show off your vehicles, systems, and installations. URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132845 Printed Date: October 31, 2024 at 5:57 PM Topic: Ice Ice Polo Robolop Design Posted By: robolop Subject: Ice Ice Polo Robolop Design Date Posted: December 01, 2012 at 7:27 AM Like I pronounced earlier in my BMW topic, we bought a new VW Polo. The Polo is a 1400 comfortline, with DSG, Airco, Assheating, Cruise Control en some other stuff. I will take some more pictures once she’s washed, but there not much to be seen. It’s an original new car. About the ICE, everything I need is already here. I’m very happy I didn’t sell the Precision Power amp I wanted to mount into the bimmer first. This PPI Deq 230 is a 30band equalizer. I can screw demount the front from this device, and with the longer cable (which is in the box), you can change the settings behind the wheel. As for the Subwoofer, I chose for the 4 Focal Utopia 13ws , again Also the front speakers will be Focal’s: the KrX3 series
And I also bought some cables and damping materials. It’ll take a while before I’m going to begin on the install. First of all I want to finish up the mounting works from the new radio, in the bimmer. Replies: Posted By: robolop Date Posted: December 22, 2012 at 7:12 PM Finally , I started on the Polo. The spare wheel, well, that has to stay. The intention is that this stays easily accessible, in case we need it. On the right side you can see there’s not much that can be done here. On the left side I’ve got some more place to work with, but ho wand what, I’m not quite sure. Then I placed a piece of MDF on the bottom, and looked what kind of emplacement is possible here. The intention is that the sub-box is placed against the rear seats. This will be in favor of the pressure, and also the looks will be much more pretty. What I do know is that I’ll place hem under diagonally. The view will be more spectacular and more beautiful, I think. But I’m not there yet. First of all I’m going to calculate how many liters are necessary for the subbox, the rest will turn out from its own. Posted By: robolop Date Posted: December 22, 2012 at 7:16 PM Because the floor needs to go all the way up before you can access the spare wheel, I had to make a hinge first. “Oppress” sound really professional, but I did it quite simple… The result. The alu plates will be mounted on a bracket, which is already in the polo (from the factory) I screwed a bolt through the lager, an M8. Once I did this on both sides, I connected these 2 with a U This U is on the inside 18mm. There I’ll place the wood in. Posted By: robolop Date Posted: December 22, 2012 at 7:17 PM This will be the box, that will be mounted in the trunk.
Another look at how big the sub-box will be. Now you see a MDF-shelf that will part the sub-box from the amplifier area. About the partition, I’m thinking on some cool things, but I’m not entirely sure yet… First I had the idea to work in the equalizer in one of the sun-blinders on the seiling, but they were too big for it. It’s a pitty, cause I liked the idea myself. Here you can see it’s possible that I raise the equalizer a couple of more cm’s, and that too I liked! Posted By: robolop Date Posted: December 22, 2012 at 7:18 PM As for the finishing inside the box, I chose 2mm thick aluminium. Milled out the holes for the subwoofers. Mounted the speakers for the first time. 4 in a row Posted By: robolop Date Posted: December 22, 2012 at 7:18 PM Because I’m going to mount the equalizer onto the amplifier, I decided to make an aluminum plate. First of all I drew out everything on a piece of MDF, 8mm thick. The piece is finished, and I’m happy with the result. I sawed out the alu plate with the jigsaw, after that I taped it on the MDF. Then I started to mill this with the copymill. The result: I just need to sand the edges… Then I mounted the EQ on there with 4 screws, and layed it on the amplifier. The busses won’t stay as in this setup. I’m going to let some made on the height I want. Here you can see the amp also stand on “busses”. I did this to work away the cables. For the first time, I timed how long I worked on this Aluminum plate. Drawing on MDF But as you guys already know, I don’t give a f*k how long it took me, as long as the result is OK for me Posted By: robolop Date Posted: December 22, 2012 at 7:21 PM Here you see what I’ve done to work away the cables in an easy and fast way. On the bottom side I milled out a big sloth to place the cables in. Once I placed the cables there, I’m going to screw a thin plate on there so the bottom side will look descent too. I chose glass to work out the separation between the sub-box and the amplifier. I milled out a ditch on the left and the right. Off course I need to have some material left and right to screw the box tight. Here you can see that this bar is also tightened left and right. In that alu I can tap screwthread to screw my cover on. On the side I’ll place long woodbolts and on the back (hinge) I need to straighten it out with polyester, then it’s possible I also tap in some screwthread. Posted By: robolop Date Posted: December 22, 2012 at 7:21 PM I changed the plate which is on the amplifier. I widened it a bit more. On the sides I foresaw other plates with fine openings. About those openings, this will provide some more cooling for the amp, and off course look even better. Posted By: robolop Date Posted: December 22, 2012 at 7:22 PM This time I won’t be working with copper for the connection of the Focal Subs. When I started this project, I said I was going to keep it basic….and I’m getting the feeling it’s getting a bit out of hand again . I want to show with this connection , that you can make beautiful and good things with simple stuff. First I let a friend make me a couple of aluminium busses. Then I took an aluminium rectangular bar from 10mm on 15mm. You can see, that I when I drilled a hole, I let the drill stay into the hole. That way the lath can’t go anywhere, and it all stays on 1 line. Here you can see the alu bar, with the busses underneath. The bar is mounted on 3 places with normal inbus-screws, which are sunken in. These inbus-screws you will see everywhere in this install. Where the connection of the speaker will come, you can see holes of 8mm. Here will a little anodized aluminium tube will be placed, where the cable will run through. I need to order the alu busses cause they aren’t in stock. I also hope that the temperature will go up a bit, cause where I’m working now, there’s no heating. And for those little works, it’s freeeeeeezing on my hands (and the rest) Posted By: robolop Date Posted: December 22, 2012 at 7:23 PM I grabbed the mill from out the cupboard and started making some sloths on the bottomside (for the cables from the subs) Then I started making frames where the glass will rest on. This alu plate is about 3mm thick. Then I cut away as much as possible with the jigsaw. Because it’s impossible to saw straight with a jigsaw, I milled the last mm. It’s superimportant that the aluminium is taped to the table. I did it with dubbel sided tape. And a lath which functions as a glider for the mill. This looks pretty smooth and easy, but when you look at the clock, hours pass by. But I don’t care about the time. Posted By: robolop Date Posted: December 22, 2012 at 7:23 PM Cause of the cold this week, I didn’t manage to do much. Where I’m working at the moment, there’s no heating, and you can feel the cold comin’ out of the ground. There are nicer days to work on an install. The 2 alu frames (for the glas to rest on) are finished. On the back of the subbox, where the hinge is placed, I had to weld an extra iron. Once the holes were good, I taped the glass onto the aluminium. I glued the glass with black TEK7. I left this to dry for more than four days, and it still wasn’t dry. Probably because it’s cold and moist in my garage for the moment. Then I worked on the connections of the woofers. Here you can see the 8 alu tubes where the cable gets through. You can also see LED holders, and little O-rings. First of all, I glued the led holders into the alu tubes with 2 components-glue Another doodiety job was that I had to sand down the inside of the holes, where the tubes glide through. Once all this was done, I could place the tubes through the holes without scratching it. You can also see the O-rings I slipped over it, to get a nice finishing touch. With these connections I want to prove that it doesn’t always have to be copper, and you can make nice things with normal stuff. Here you see how the glass rests on the subbox, and how it’s screwed. Offcourse I’m going to place rubber in between to get a more perfect seal. The glass on the amplifier part: This will be tightened with a couple of screws, so if I have to turn the EQ, it’s just a matter of screwing some screws loose. Another cool shot Posted By: robolop Date Posted: December 22, 2012 at 7:24 PM Exiting day today. I mounted the box into the trunk. I used every inch possible in there, but I had a good feeling when I let the thing go up and down. I had to do a minor adjustment with the hammer. The box didn’t go (only for a couple of mm) by the eyes on the back of the trunk STOP- Hammertime! lol You can see how close it all is. I also changed something on the hinge and now I need to finish it off. When the trunk is up to gain access to the spare wheel, I need to flatten out the back seat I think the spare wheel is easy accessible, no? Posted By: robolop Date Posted: February 17, 2013 at 10:50 AM I managed to lift the box in the trunk, without using much force. You can see how easy I managed to solve this. I welded 2 springs together. I had to do this cause 1 long one, wasn't strong enough. I also used a steel cable of 3mm. You can also see I mounted the springs on top of each other, otherwise there was no room. You can see on the length of the cable, I can still add more tension on it. Here you can see how tight it all is next to the box, and what I mean with putting the springs on each other. The springs and the hinge, there's also some fine-tuning necessary. I have to sanded down, and spray it. The box is placed on 4 rubbers, also for the vibration. But I also had to make something to tighten the box on once it's closed. I've managed to solve this with only 1 inbus-screw The shackle I made, is screwed in the trunk. You can also see a rubber cap on it. Then I made a little aluminium plate, and screwed it to the box. So when the box is closed, the plate comes directly on the shackle. I tuned this with another inbus-screw (M10). And so you can screw it loose or tight with only 1 screw. Sometimes I wonder what the hell I'm doing with the bimmer. Posted By: 9074life Date Posted: October 23, 2021 at 6:23 AM You have inspired me, thank you. Beautiful artwork you do.
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