2014 Honda CR-V, Avital 4103lx

It's cool that your first install was on your mom's vehicle because the Honda that I'm installing this on is my mom's car also. I'm excited to get experience on working with remote starters because I paid a shop to install a remote start on my car recently and ended up spending a fortune. :/ And I'm rather an avid DIY'r so it's painful to pay a lot of money for something I could have potentially done myself. But now that I've joined this community, hopefully that won't happen again :)-jhansen6

I like the idea of "keeping it simple".  Using products from one manufacturer / supplier is a good idea.  For the professional, having

the necessary USB bypass module flash cable ( XKLoader2 for DEI, ADS USB for iDatalink and FlashLink for Fortin ) isn't an issue,just a one-time purchase of an important tool.  For the DIYer, the extra $40 to $90 per cable could be prohibitive.  Now-a-days, almostevery bypass module has to be flashed prior to use.   We all have our favorites, usually a product you are familiar with that hasperformed well.   iDatalink is my go-to bypass module, with Fortin a very close second. 

Just one more thought.  As mentioned by Ted, some of the entry level R/S systems have some difficulties with D2D.  They are getting

better but...    Aside from Tach and Brake issues, the 4103 can have ESP BitWriter / DBI D2D port function problems.  Some unitsare shipped with the port set to ESP BitWriter and need to be manually switched over to DBI D2D mode for proper operation of theD2D data connection to the bypass module.  Due to those issues, if I am using a full featured bypass module ( one that performs more functions that just transponder bypass ) and an Avital 41x3 unit, I go W2W between the modules.  While it is time consuming, done on the bench during the prep phase, it can be done neatly, is very logical and always works 100%.  No post-install / testing issues and no come-backs.  If you have the time, going D2D could work OK and you can always revert back to W2W if necessary.

Here are the steps to switch Data port modes on the Avital 4103 :

Avital /  Python BitWriter/ESP to DBI mode port change over.

To use as D2D mode follow the below steps:

1. Remove all power from the Avital R/S brain. 2. Make sure Avital's WHITE/ Blue activation wire is grounded.3. Power the unit up. If the system LED flashes for 5 seconds, you are now in DBI D2D mode.  If the system LED comes on solid    for 5 seconds, you are now in ESP/BitWriter Mode - start over at Step 1 to get the 5 second blink for DBI D2D mode.  4. Remove the WHITE/ Blue wire from ground.  ( Do this cleanly, without pulsing the WHITE/ Blue wire.)

Soldering is fun!

Oh and also, to make the wiring connections, should I go with just a good ol' soldering iron and solder?-jhansen6

If you never soldered before, you can do more harm than good. Keep it simple with a strip, poke and twist. Aka the military splice and you should be fine. Most mid market 35watt soldering irons often don't heat up enough to solder a 12gauge wire. This is where butane irons shine. Don't skimp out on electrical tape either. 3M superscotch 33+, scotch 700 or 88+ works great. About 6 dollars a roll-holds up in the coldTed

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

On any butt type wire connections, heat shrink tube ( available at WalMart and RadioShack, among other places ) works great. 

Remote start unit and ADS DL bypass module bench-prepped in W2W mode :

Soldering is fun!

Sorry for the late reply, been busy with school and family. Thanks to everyone who contributed to the thread! You're a great help! I am now a lot more confident to start this whole install -jhansen6