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2002 cavalier, remote start


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delongboy 
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Joined: October 21, 2008
Posted: October 29, 2008 at 1:40 PM / IP Logged  

Ok, I am getting power to the actuator on lock and unlock, so it's clearly dead.  As far as changing the actuator, where is the best place to get them, I checked some parts stores and they are $50-60 which seems really high.  Is a junk yard a good place for these?  Also, as far as changing it, it appears I have to remove the whole latch mechanism to get to it, is this correct?

Thanks again for everybody's help.

ckeeler 
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Joined: June 20, 2008
Location: New Mexico, United States
Posted: October 29, 2008 at 2:26 PM / IP Logged  
Yea, that whole thing has to come out. if you go that route just get a new one. DORMAN or BALKAMP from the parts stores. another route you can go is to just disconnect the wires from the factory one, install a regular old aftermarket door lock actuator and solder and heat shrink the wires that went to the old one to the new one. just leave the factory one in the door. ive done that more times than i can remember.
delongboy 
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Joined: October 21, 2008
Posted: October 29, 2008 at 2:53 PM / IP Logged  

That sounds like a good route.  I have seen aftermarket ones for $5-10.  I assume you are talking about mounting it somewhere easier to get to?  Is there any special kind I should be looking for, and do they come with instructions?

Thanks again for your help ckeeler.  You have been most helpfull.

ckeeler 
Gold - Posts: 1,461
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Joined: June 20, 2008
Location: New Mexico, United States
Posted: October 29, 2008 at 3:00 PM / IP Logged  
i like SPAL, but any brand will work. and yep way cheaper too. they wont have instructions, but they are self explanatory, just some mounting hardware and 2 wires.
delongboy 
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Joined: October 21, 2008
Posted: October 31, 2008 at 7:43 AM / IP Logged  

A couple weeks ago I installed a remote start on a 2002 cavalier.  I used a 555L bypass module.  Everything seems to work perfect most of the time.  However, every once in a while the car will not remote start.  It fires up and runs for about 2 seconds and shuts off.  It doesn't happen very often.  Most of the time it starts fine and stays running.  And if I use the key to start it and then remote start it works fine.  And once in a while it will remote start fine and stay running and when I get to the car the anti-theft light is on in the dash.  It runs fine but the light will stay on until I turn the car off.  Again, both these issues are very random, I stress most of the time it works fine. 

I am not sure if the bypass module is defaulty or if I possibly didn't get the exact right one for my car?  Possibly a loose wire?  I did double check all my connections.  Any ideas?  I'm kinda stumped here.  Keep in mind this is my first install so I may have missed something. 

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

delongboy 
Member - Posts: 30
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Joined: October 21, 2008
Posted: November 06, 2008 at 9:38 AM / IP Logged  
So I went and bought an aftermarket actuator and installed it.  And it is the same issue.  Will unlock but will not lock the drivers door.  I did a little more testing on the wires and here is what I found.  On unlock the tan wire going to the motor gets power as it should.  On lock the tan AND grey wire get power.  I am pretty sure this is wrong.  I cannot find anywhere that I tied into the unlock motor so I am not sure why this is happening.  Any ideas out there?
noobie4life 
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Joined: April 18, 2008
Posted: November 06, 2008 at 12:42 PM / IP Logged  
Ok lets see if I can help. To start, I have a 2 door cavalier. When I wired up my alarm, I left the factory alarm totally intact. I then just disarmed it and left it at that. When I wired the aftermarket alarm to the factory doors, I used the factory relays. I used the factory wires and connections. The only difference is that I cut the wire for the lock wire where it goes to the BCM. In doing this, the aftermarket alarm will lock the doors but the factory BCM will unlock the doors BUT I spliced the drivers door unlock wire and the passenger door unlock together (to the aftermarket alarm) so that I dont need to press the disarm button twice.
delongboy 
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Joined: October 21, 2008
Posted: November 06, 2008 at 12:55 PM / IP Logged  
Well here is what I did.  I connected the lock and unlock from the new alarm system to the lock and unlock coming from the switch in the door.  This way one touch will lock and unlock all doors.  the factory system is still intact and should still work fine.  Now I am starting to think that maybe there is a relay for the door that has stopped working?  I assume with 2 wires going the the motor that one sends power while the other grounds.  Depending which one will control which way the motor goes.  What I am seeing is that when you press unlock the wires for the drivers side motor one shows 12 volts the other is at ground. and the door unlocks.  when you press lock they are both showing 12 volts.  this is only on the drivers door.  It seems the unlock wire is not grounding during the lock process and this is causing the door to not lock.  does anyone know if there is a relay or something for this door that may have blown?
delongboy 
Member - Posts: 30
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Joined: October 21, 2008
Posted: November 06, 2008 at 1:53 PM / IP Logged  
I got thinking maybe I hooked something up wrong and am sending power to both on lock.  So I cut the wire to the unlock of the motor and tested.  On unlock there is power going towards the motor, which was expected.  On lock there is power coming from the motor in the door.  not coming from the other way.  So I assume I was correct that the unlock wire is not grounding during lock.  Any ideas what could be the cause of this?
delongboy 
Member - Posts: 30
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Joined: October 21, 2008
Posted: November 06, 2008 at 2:01 PM / IP Logged  
Another idea... is there some kind of feature that won't lock the drivers door with the key in the ignition?  Is it possible there is another issue maybe with the passlock bypass that is making the car think there is a key in the ignition and won't allow the door to lock?
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