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clifford 50.7x wiring, 99 chevy 3500


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sneakycyber 
Silver - Posts: 413
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 13, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 28, 2010 at 1:03 PM / IP Logged  
Since the lights don't work properly with the doors I would have to speculate there is a grounding issue somewhere in the dome light wiring possibly the switch itself. Disconnect the alarm as Steve mentioned and see if you can find where it grounded out I would start with the door pins since they can become bent, or rusted and stay grounded keeping to dome light on and telling your alarm the door is still open. You could always re wire the system by running all new wires, this may be easier then tracing a short.
hawks 
Member - Posts: 41
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2009
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: February 28, 2010 at 5:53 PM / IP Logged  
Okay..I traced down the problem with the rear dome light and got it operating.  It was a caroded plug connection.  I cut all the wires and made new connections and it works perfectly now.  The door pins however are still not operating properly and all those connections that I can see look fine, there is a tan wire going from the driver side pin that I can not see where it goes.  I did try disconnecting the door trigger wire that was the first thing I tried.  I think it might be the light switch.  What would be the best way to test the light switch you think?  There should be power going to one of the wires at the door pin so if I probe the door pin wires one should be hot and if I don't find any of them hot then I would think the switch is bad.  Right?
hawks 
Member - Posts: 41
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2009
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: April 18, 2010 at 9:29 PM / IP Logged  

Okay I am wrapping this alarm install up and have one last item to connect and that is the defogger output and I was hoping someone could give me a little help.  I am attaching a schematic of my wiring layout.  Does anyone have an idea on the best way to wire this up?  It would be great to be able to wire this into the existing wiring without adding a relay but I don't think that is going to be the case.  And, if I do need to add a relay how should I wire it up.

Thanks

clifford 50.7x wiring, 99 chevy 3500 - Page 3 -- posted image.

hawks 
Member - Posts: 41
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2009
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: May 09, 2010 at 12:26 AM / IP Logged  

I used a 30amp relay and connected as you would converting a negative input into a positive output.  I tapped the 12vdc constant going to the heating/ac controls with a 25amp inline fuse then to the relay and connected the output to the defogger wire.  It works the way it should but the inline fuse and the relay heat up.  The fuse heats up more than the relay.  I am not comfortable with that so I was hoping someone might have an idea on a way to install without the wires getting hot.  Should I remove the inline fuse between the power source and the relay and just use heavier wire and a 40amp relay?  The defogger is a 30amp circuit using 14awg for power and the output wire looks slightly bigger.  There is a ignition on power wire running to the heating/ac controls as well that is a smaller wire which I assume carries less current.  What about using that for my power source rather than the constant on wire since the defogger will only be used when the vehicle is running.  Also something that I thought is a little strange is when I activate the remote defogger the dash lights flash 2 or 3 times...is it suppose to do that?  It works fine except for the getting hot problem.

Thank you for any suggetions and help.

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