2014 Honda CR-V, Avital 4103lx

Hi all, This is my first post on the12volt, but I've been a lurker for a while. Anyways, I'll get straight to the point. I'm looking into installing an Avital 4103LX remote start into my 2014 Honda CR-V. The bypass module that I want to use is the ADS-ALCA. I have a few questions though. 1. I've seen on some topics on this forum that the ignition wires from the remote start get hooked directly into the ignition and starter wires in the car. On the ADS-ALCA wiring guide, however, it says to hook the remote start's ignition wires to the ADS-ALCA. So, where do I splice the wires to? 2. Do I need any relays to make this remote start work with my car? 3. I know that the ADS-ALCA and the Avital 4103LX require +12v and ground connections. Where should I draw power from? (Preferably not the battery) Also, I would be using W2W for all the connections since it seems to be preferred. I would be flashing the ADS-AL(DL)-HA3 (1.7) firmware. Here's the link to the Avital 4103 install guide (assuming it's the same as the 4103LX?) And I attached a picture of the ADS-ALCA wiring guide for the 2014 Honda CR-V. -jhansen6

The ADS AL-CA with ADS AL(DL) HA3 Type 2 install diagram does not show all the necessary wires for the R/S portion of the install.

Going W2W will work well ( just did a 2013 Civic with the HA3 firmware ).  There are some wires from the bypass module shown thatdo not need to be connected ( E-Brake, Trunk Status & Door Status ) as the 4103 has no need for them.

As far as the 4103 to CR-v connections, here goes :

H1/1  LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK  FACTORY ALARM DISARM          to ADS AL-CAH1/2  GREEN / WHITE  FACTORY REARM           not usedH1/3  YELLOW  (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) not usedH1/4  WHITE/ BLUE  (-) ACTIVATION INPUT        not usedH1/5  ORANGE  (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED    not usedH1/6  BROWN  (-) HORN OUTPUT          CR-v Orange or Purple (-) @ horn switch or dash fuse box, 38 pin plug (C), pin 35 H1/7  RED / WHITE  (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT          to ADS AL-CAH1/8  BLACK  GROUND Chassis GroundH1/9  WHITE  (+/-) LIGHT FLASH  * Set to (-)      CR-v Blue (-) @ headlight switch, white 12 pin plug, pin 8

H2/1  BLACK/ WHITE  (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT        Chassis Ground

H2/2  VIOLET/WHITE  TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE           to ADS AL-CAH2/3  BROWN  (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE    to ADS AL-CAH2/4  GRAY  (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE    to ADS AL-CA  ( if Factory Hood Pin equipped )  H2/5  BLUE/WHITE  (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOG         CR-v RED (- LATCHED) BEHIND DASH FUSE BOX 20 PIN CONN, PIN 18   **Set to Latched

4-pin satellite harness diagram

1  BLUE  STATUS OUTPUT to ADS AL-CA Blue/White GWR Input2  ORANGE  (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT      not used3  PURPLE  (-) STARTER OUTPUT   not used4  PINK  (-) IGNITION OUTPUT       not used

Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram

1  PINK  (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT           CR-v  Red (+) @ ignition switch, white 5 pin plug, pin 2   2  PURPLE  (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT    CR-v Green (+) @ ignition switch, white 5 pin plug, pin 5 ***3  ORANGE  (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT         CR-v  Blue (+) @ ignition switch, white 5 pin plug, pin 4 4  RED  (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT CR-v White (50A) (+)   @ ignition switch, white 5 pin plug, pin 1 5  PINK/WHITE  (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT ****set to ACC2      CR-v Yellow (+)  @ ignition switch, white 5 pin plug, pin 3 6  RED  (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT           CR-v White (50A) (+)   @ ignition switch, white 5 pin plug, pin 1 *** The ADS AL-CA BLACK/ White (+) Starter Input wire also gets connected to the thick Purple wire above.

Door lock harness, 3-pin connector

1  BLUE  (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT        to ADS AL-CA2  EMPTY  NOT USED3  GREEN  (-) LOCK OUTPUT          to ADS AL-CA

Soldering is fun!

Why do you not connect the factory alarm disarm wire? I would still like to arm and disarm the system.-jhansen6

Think I did :

H1/1  LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK  FACTORY ALARM DISARM          to ADS AL-CA

That takes care of the Factory Alarm Disarm function from the 4103.  As for the Factory Alarm Arm function, the 4103 Lock

output's connection to the ADS AL-CA does both, Lock and Arm with the Lock pulse.  No need for any other Alarm Arm connection.

Soldering is fun!

1. as Kreg Mentioned, not all connections are shown, due to the fact installers should know large gauge wires are required for function of the start. Make all large gauge connections to the key cylinder, then connect your bypass module. 2. no relays are required 3.you can get the constant power right at the ignition switch. It's capable of 40 amps. W2W is the fallback when D2D doesn't work. From personal experience, D2D was brutal a few years back; but tech advances have improved drastically. In which d2d errors are very rare unless you have a bad unit. I would flash it DBI-AL(DL)-HA3 use d2d (less clutter) but you MUST hardwire the tach and brake from the 4103 to the idatalink . I haven't used w2w for the last 3 years (compustar/idatalink) 4103 or any entry level start units are notorious for no start when used in d2d. Hardwiring those 2 will fix that. If you plan to go w2w then go for it.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Thanks for the input :) When I asked about the factory disarm wire, I meant the re-arm wire, but you explained that. As for W2W or D2D, do you still recommend that I go with W2W since the Avital is an entry level system? Also, even though the ignition switch wire is 40 amps, how much power does the remote start and bypass require? I trust you on telling me to tap into it but I don't want to blow a fuse. Also, are most cars set up so that when you lock the door lock it automatically arms the system (like in the CR-V so you don't have to hook up the factory arm wire)? I plan on installing a remote start on another car also, if this install goes well, so I'm just trying to get as much info as possible.-jhansen6

jhansen The information you got from Ted and Kreg is gospel. These guys are straight pros. They have installed more R/S than I have hairs on my head. I on the other hand am a DIY guy, kind of like yourself. So the advice I am going to give comes from that standpoint, keeping it simple since I don't do it often. That said, I would not mix and match R/S and bypass. Use the same brand, so if Avital, use a DEI bypass like DB-ALL. or switch to a different R/S if you want the ALCA bypass. I think Fortin makes an All in one unit, but pricey. I would try D2D first as it will save a few connections, that may be no big deal for a pro, but a DIY guy can save a lot of time with D2D. If no luck then W2W. Again, Ted and Kreg are the experts, just some food for thought.

Like I've said, I've been a lurker for a while, so I know that the information I can get here is A+++ quality. But anyways I'm just trying to gain as much info as possible because of this install goes well (hopefully so) I want to install another system on another car :) thanks everyone for your help and advice so far!-jhansen6

jhansen6 wrote: 1) As for W2W or D2D, do you still recommend that I go with W2W since the Avital is an entry level system? 2) even though the ignition switch wire is 40 amps, how much power does the remote start and bypass require? I 3) Also, are most cars set up so that when you lock the door lock it automatically arms the system (like in the CR-V so you don't have to hook up the factory arm wire)? 4) I plan on installing a remote start on another car also, if this install goes well, so I'm just trying to get as much info as possible.

1) As I previously mentioned, the no start issue with the entry level 4103 can be resolved easily. When you use D2D, just do a straight hardwire of the tach and footbrake to the idatalink. Now most would say the unit would read tach over the data connection (true) but if the wire is connected, it will take precedence of a hardwire connection first. same goes for brake status. w2w would work 100% it just becomes a tad messy for my liking. 2) the remote start doesn't draw much. The unit is probably 1 amp at most, while the bypass is <500mA. The vehicles ignition/acc circuit is run off that single 40amp line, therefore you should not have any issues. No worries here. 3) Not all vehicles are set up to dis/arm with un/lock. This is typically vehicle dependant. Some have seperate arm/disarm and lock/unlock (subaru), while others will lock/unlock simply by triggering the factory disarm/arm wires(toyota). The honda vehicles are slightly deviated from most manufacture, in which the factory remote does not function when the ignition is on. Why? In the engineers mind, why would you need the factory remote to unlock if the car is already running. Makes sense to me, but inconveniences the installer/ 3x lock start ability. Not to confuse anyone or yourself here. This is why you need to do a hardwired analog connection from the bypass to the vehicle(outlined in the idatalink guide). You may notice an ignition input into the idatalink. Heres a simple breakdown. When the idatalink sense NO ignition, the bypass module sends OEM remote unlock/disarm/lock/rearm codes through the data system. However, when the ignition is ON, OEM codes no longer work ( as stated above, limitation of the vehicle). That is precisely why hardwire connections are required at the kick panel. 4) The beauty of a forum is to ask questions, and receive input/help from other experienced DIY/Pro installers. It's a huge community, and someone always has 2cents to toss into the mix. I knew nothing electrical prior, joined the forum to fix a remote starter in my moms vehicle - Been installing professionally and as a hobby ever since. I've put down the wire strippers for some time to focus on med school, however the odd side job here and there keeps me sane. Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

manahawkinrob wrote: jhansen Use the same brand, so if Avital, use a DEI bypass like DB-ALL. or switch to a different R/S if you want the ALCA bypass. I think Fortin makes an All in one unit, but pricey. I would try D2D first as it will save a few connections, that may be no big deal for a pro, but a DIY guy can save a lot of time with D2D. If no luck then W2W. Again, Ted and Kreg are the experts, just some food for thought.

Thanks for the feedback, greatly appreciated! +1 I have always done d2d, and if something failed i would simply switch over to w2w. I partially agree that when choosing a remote start brand, you should stick within its Family. However, I've had really bad luck with Xpresskits, to the point I never consider them first. I Will only resort to idatalink or Fortin. Idatalink and fortin will work with ANY remote start brand out there. They support all data protocols from APO/Idatalink, D2D, Fortin Protocol, Encrypted Protocol, and remote start companies have taken into account of these protocols as well. Realistically speaking, you can use any of the 3 bypass modules on any remote start system out there. Being a compustar user, i've been accustomed to using idatalink blades for any install I do. BTW, idatalink is also an all-in-one bypass solution, just it requires you to flash a file for your specific application. The fortin comes PRE-LOADED; technically it's ready to go out of the box ! great for mobile installers. Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert