remote start for 01 ranger

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tony_p8784

Member - Posts: 2

Joined: October 13, 2008

Posted: October 13, 2008 at 8:14 PM / IP Logged

Hi, new to the12volt. Vehicle: 2001 Ford Ranger

I just installed a Directed (AutoCommand) add-on remote starter. This system requires the use of the factory remote to activate the remote start via two negative pulses.

Here is my dilemma. The unlock wire in my door panel (pink/lt. green) is suppose to be double negative pulse to unlock. This made me think I could use this wire to activate the remote start. Not true. When I probe the wire with the red lead and put the black lead on ground it reads +1.5v at rest and +6.5v for a couple seconds during unlock. No double negative pulse.

I know my remote start is working because I started the truck by hooking the activation wire to ground with a pulse switch in between. I hit the pulse switch twice and she fired right up.

My question is, where can I find an input that will activate my remote start with the factory starter?

reax222

Copper - Posts: 220

Joined: March 11, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: October 13, 2008 at 10:12 PM / IP Logged

How many buttons does your remote have? The problem I see is, wiring to the unlock means the engine will start anytime you unlock it electronically.

I would expect you have 5 wire reverse polarity lock switches, so make sure your testing on the lock actuator and not the switch wires.

jt@arkcarstereo

Member - Posts: 3

Joined: August 23, 2008

Location: Arkansas, United States

Posted: October 14, 2008 at 12:37 PM / IP Logged

I would wire the rs up to the lock wire. This means that when you hit the lock button twice the truck will start and also will still be locked while running. I use my rs 9 out of 10 times and would hate to have my car running and unlocked.

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tony_p8784

Member - Posts: 2

Joined: October 13, 2008

Posted: October 14, 2008 at 1:47 PM / IP Logged

I agree it would be a better idea to use the lock wire to activate.

I believe my truck's unlock switch is a negative three wire type.

"3 Wire Negative"

There are three wires in the harness not counting the illumination wire(s), if any. One wire has continuity to ground at all times. Another wire only shows continuity to ground during lock and (+) 12 V DC at rest. The last wire only shows continuity to ground during unlock and (+) 12 V DC at rest.

Based on the above info, if I tap into the lock wire at the switch, I should be able to hit the lock button twice to activate the starter. I can't get this to work.

reax222, should I use one of the switch wires (above) or one of the lock actuator wires? I do not have a diagram for the lock actuator wires.

reax222

Copper - Posts: 220

Joined: March 11, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: October 14, 2008 at 2:27 PM / IP Logged

That would depend if the switch sees the ground pulse when you use the keyfob. The actuator would seem to be the most logical choice. The actuator (if like my 2002 F250) should have two wires. During unlock one of those wires will be the ground and the other hot, during lock it will be the opposite.

chriswallace187

Gold - Posts: 1,661

Joined: March 11, 2002

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: October 16, 2008 at 3:56 PM / IP Logged

If you have factory keyless, the switch will certainly be 3-wire negative trigger. Most likely on your truck however, the (-) lock/unlock signals only tell the GEM(or some other control module) to operate the doors and aren't activated when the remote is used. Therefore you need to use the lock motor lead, wired to a relay as follows:

85, 87 - ground

86 - lock motor lead

30 - (-) activation input to remote start

87a - n.c.

If your AutoCommand piece has a (+) activation input, like some DEI stuff does, you could just connect that directly to the lock motor lead without the relay.

C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

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remote start for 01 ranger

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