Viper 5704v, Omegalink OL-MDB-ALL, 2011 Ford Fusion, 40 Bits Key

Hello everyone, I appreciate any information that helps me install this system. It's my first remote start with a security system and I've already tested a few things and I can't remote start my 2011 Ford Fusion automatic. So here we go, I'm using a viper 5704v unit with an omegalink OL-MDB-ALL bypass module connected to D2D. I installed the viper 5704v following exactly the recommendations in the post https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=117787&tpn=1 However, I cannot remotely start the connections made according to ''@05gt the main harness needs to be connected like this for milan/fusion/mkz H3/1 Pink (connect this to car ignition 1) H3/2 RED / White (unused) H3/3 Orange (connect this to ACC 1 in the car) H3/4 Violet (connect this to the car starter wire) H3/5 Green (unused) H3/6 Red (connect to 12 volts in car) H3/7 Pink/White (not used) H3/8 Pink/Black (unused) H3/9 RED / Black (connect to 12 volts in car) H1/2 Red (connect this to 12 volts in the car) H1/5 Black (connect this wire to ground) H2/9 Violet/White (connect this wire to the tachometer wire in the car) H2/17 Brown (connect this wire to the car's foot brake) H2/18 BLACK/ White (connect this wire to ground and connect the 2-pin neutral safety plug and switch to the on position) As for anything else, please respond when you have connected correctly.'' I also tried to install it like @angelars, leaving aside the bypass module (for later) and trying just the viper unit with the oem key inserted in the ignition and turned to the on position for remote start, but still without success. @angelars was successful. However, I didn't have the same success and I realized that I was connecting something wrong or failing to connect and/or correctly configure the viper 5704v unit. any help or suggestion is welcome. So if anyone can provide some more detailed information on how to connect the remaining wiring to the harnesses and also the main harness (remote start) of the viper 5704v unit to the ford fusion 2011automatic I would appreciate it. At first I want to make the remote start of the Viper start with the OEM key inserted in the ignition and in the on position, work as @angelars After this I will proceed to the omega bypass module.

A few thoughts : 1. Was the Omega OL-MDB-ALL flashed with the correct FM2 firmware? 2. Did the OL-MDB-ALL program correctly as per the install guide? Must also set the "Install Mode" to DATA. 3. Did you set the Viper R/S unit to Auto Trans ( Menu 3, Item 1 to Opt 2 )? 4. Putting the key in and turning it to RUN will also provide all the ignition +12V signals. You should only insert the key, not turned, to test the transponder bypass part of the install. The Viper should provide the ignition signal if wired correctly. Soldering is fun!

hi kreg357 thank you very much for trying to help me and giving me tips. So I will respond to the reflections you sent me and then I will send you a diagram of how I made the connection and a step by step of what I came up with and also programmed, etc. in each unit. (viper 5704v) and (omega OL-MDB-ALL) I hope you understand me if not, feel free to say... as this is my first R/S you will have to be a little more patient with me. I ask you please not to abandon me. 1. Has the Omega OL-MDB-ALL been updated with the correct FM2 firmware? *has been updated with OL-AL(MDB)-FM2 v1.2 2. Was the OL-MDB-ALL program executed correctly according to the installation guide? You also need to set the "Install Mode" to DATA. *has been set to date mode ("LED flashes 1x once) *connection of the OL-MDB-ALL wires: -BROWN/RED - canH to obd2 car -BROWN/YELLOW - canL to obd2 car -ORANGE/BLACK - immo.RX (data) to PATS rx (yellow/orange wire) ignition switch. -PINK - ignition (+) input together with H3/1 viper wire to ignition1 of the car's ignition switch -GREY/RED - immo.TX (data) to PATS tx (violet/gray) ignition switch. *The scheme requires connecting trunk release wire 3 (RED/WHITE) from viper pin 24 to the wire (brown/yellow) of the car's trunk button. It was done. *owever, omega bypass also requires connection unlock/disarm (-) output and lock/arm (-) output from the viper alarm 5704v for the omega and the viper to work and I don't know which one to use, as it has blue wires (-) 500mA UNLOCK output and the green wire (-) 500mA LOCK output from the 3-pin viper connector. But it also has the green/black (-) 200mA factory alarm DISARM output wires and the green/white (-) 200mA factory alarm ARM output wire from the 24-pin viper connector. *after connections I did the programming process with the two OEM keys. I didn't do the KLON programming process, which only requires an OEM key. So I did the process using the 3-pin wires first and it didn't work. So I did it with 24-pin wires and it didn't work either. ://// 3. Have you configured the Viper R/S unit for Automatic Transmission (Menu 3, Item 1 to Option 2)? *Yes, I did the programming with the bitwriter device. 4. Inserting the key and turning it to RUN will also provide all +12V ignition signals. You should only insert the key, not turn it, to test the transponder bypass portion of the installation. The Viper should provide the ignition signal if wired correctly. *ok let's go...in this process I turned the key, but it doesn't start. it only remained in the on stage (panel on and fuel pump pulse injected once) without starting the engine. I will have to test this tip. thanks. But another One thing I noticed was the H3/4 VIOLET wire (viper) remains constant +12v as soon as I connect the viper device to +12v (H1/1 wire constant and H1/2 ground) is this correct? or the H3/4 wire should give a pulse only when pressing the remote start button on the viper control because it is constant as if it were also a constant +12v wire. I found this strange. note: the H3/1 pink ignition 1 wire and the H3/3 orange accessory wire (viper) give a pulse only when the remote start button of the lc3 control is pressed. I imagine that the violet H3/4 would have to do the same thing after a few moments to start the car's engine. And it doesn't happen. Step 1 connections I made only for remote start, not security alarm (viper5704v): >10-pin viper connector (thick gauge): -H3/1 PINK was connected to ignition1 of the car's ignition switch. (white/orange wire) -H3/2 RED/WHITE (not used). -H3/3 ORANGE was connected to the ignition switch accessory wire. (violet/green). -H3/4 VIOLET was connected to the start wire on the ignition switch. (blue/white). -H3/5 GREEN (not used). -H3/6 RED was connected to the constant +12v wire of the ignition switch (blue/red). -H3/7 PINK/WHITE (not used). -H3/8 PINK/BLACK (not used) -H3/9 RED/BLACK was connected to H3/6 (+12v from viper5704) and together to the constant +12v wire from the ignition switch (blue/red) >6-pin viper connector: -H1/1 RED was connected to the constant +12v in the vehicle. -H1/2 BLACK was connected to the ground. -H1/3 BROWN (siren output) was connected correctly. -H1/5 WHITE (parking light output) was connected correctly. -H1/6 ORANGE (500mA gorund when armed output) "what is this wire for???? Connecting a negative pulse for the sunroof or closing the windows when the alarm is activated to arm and lock the doors for example???" >3-pin connector, door Lock: -1 BLUE (500mA unlock) "I'm still unsure about this wire and the wire green/black factory alarm DISARM....??" how and which one to use -2 not used -3 GREEN (500mA lock) "I'm still unsure about this wire and the wire green/white factory alarm ARM.....??" how and which one to use >24-pin viper connector: -wire 2 (blue/white) rear defogger output. "I don't know how to connect it correctly so that it works on the Viper LC3 control when the function is pressed on the button." -wire 3 (red/white) trunk release output "has been connected correctly". -wire 9 (gray) hood pin "I didn't connect it, because I don't think it's necessary using with the omega bypass, As the diagram shows, it already controls this...I'm in doubt????" -wire 12 (violet/white) tachometer input. "This wire is not connected because I am using virtual tach and the vehicle is automatic." -wire 13 (black/white) neutral safety/parking brake input "has been connected to the ground." -wire 14 (green/black) 200mA factory alarm disarm "I'm still unsure where to connect correctly...." -wire 16 (brown/black) 200mA horn honk output "was connected to the wire (blue/white) of the vehicle's horn -wire 20 (brown) brake shutdown "it was not turned on because it was using a bypass module. Is it also necessary to turn it on??" -wire 24 (green/white) 200mA factory alarm ARM output "still unsure about this wire" There are some more wires that I didn't list here, consider them as >not used< and please, if possible, tell me and let me know if I forgot to connect something or connected something wrong. Thank you very much in advance.

OK. So the iDatalink bypass module is flashed with the correct firmware but won't program to the car. The bypass should handle the transponder chip and supply the Hood, Door, Brake Pedal status and a Tach signal. Being as you are not doing the one key/KLON process, both ignition keys must be unique (not clones of each other). If they are the two factory original keys, you should be all set. Not sure where it is failing but at Step 16 you should do the +12V jumper to the Ignition wire (being as a R/S won't work yet). While it might be a typo, it looks like you have the RX and TX connections reversed. TX = Yellow/Orange RX = Purple/Gray Typically, I will perform a Reset procedure on the bypass module, set the Installation Mode at Step 5 and go right into vehicle programming. A lot of times installers think they have the Viper set to Auto Trans Mode but don't. That usually happens when using the remotes to change options. Since you are using a BitWriter that shouldn't be a issue. Are you getting any R/S failure codes from the Viper? Seven flashed would mean that you are in MT Mode but Reservation Mode was not set. Now for some wiring specifics. Does the vehicle have the Factory Alarm system? This will determine if the bypass module can supply a Hood Pin signal and how to wire for the door locks. You didn't specify but be sure to use the vehicles (+) Parking Light wire. It's the Purple/White wire in the Gray 10 Pin BCM connector. Set the Viper jumper to the (+) position. Being as the Viper is also an Alarm system, I would not make all 4 Viper +12V Input connections at the one Blue/Red ignition switch wire. Notice that I said all 4 Viper +12V Input wires. I would connect the thick Red/White wire to +12V, set the Pink/White output to Ignition2 and connect the Pin/White wire to the vehicles (+) Keysense wire. Keysense = Blue/Gray @ Ignition switch Pink/White output is Ignition2 as Default Locks: Having the Factory Alarm system complicates matters. Doing a R/S will turn off the Factory Alarm system - no issues. With no Factory alarm, you can just use the Vipers (-) lock outputs to these wires : Power Door Lock (All)   BLUE\GREEN (-)   @ DRIVER KICK Power Door Unlock (All)   YELLOW\VIOLET (-)    @ DRIVER KICK Rear Defrost: Use the H2/3 Blue/White wire. Connect to this vehicle wire : Rear Defrost   WHITE\ORANGE (- LATCHED)   @ HVAC CONTROLS Use the BitWriter to set Menu 3 Item 11 to Opt 2. Q & A H1/6 Orange Yes, typically used for window roll-up, etc Hood Pin might be needed if the vehicle w/ factory alarm does not have a hood pin. Viper ARM and Disarm wires might not be needed... Properly programmed bypass module will supply Brake signal and Tach Signal. Check vehicles normal key start sequence. If a quick turn to START and release will signal the ECM to crank the engine until it starts, Tach Mode and Tach Programming is not necessary. However, running in Tach Mode will allow the Viper to shutdown a R/S engine in case of a over-rev condition. Recap The bypass module should be able to be programmed to the vehicle without the Viper totally working. Just do the +12V jumper routine. The Viper should be able to attempt a R/S if set to Auto Trans. Here is the sequence. Remember that a lot is going on at once. The Viper remote R/S button is depressed. The Viper verifies that 1. In Auto Trans Mode 2. Hood is not open. 3. Brake Pedal is not depressed. 4. Viper is not in alarm condition or triggered. 5. Ignition signal from vehicle is not at +12V ( car or ignition not ON). Next the Viper brings up (-) Status Output (turns on transponder bypass). Then the Viper brings up IGN, IGN2 and ACC Then ACC is dropped and START is turned ON (diesel delay...) The Start duration is controlled by Tach Mode, Virtual Tach Mode or Fixed Time mode. Start is dropped and ACC is turned back ON. I don't think there should be +12V on the Purple Starter Output wire unless the Viper is trying to crank the starter (or the ignition key is @ Start position). I'm not a big Viper user but there might be a way to reset the Viper. As you can see, the Viper could R/S the vehicle if the key was near or inserted (but not turned) in the ignition switch to supply the needed transponder chip info. Having the key inserted and turned to ON will supply all the needed ignition signals and if the Viper sends a +12V Start signal to the starter wire, it should start and run. Of course, if the Viper sees that the ignition is ON it might not allow a R/S attempt.Soldering is fun!

hello again First of all, I want to thank you once again. -OK. I have both OEM keys (no clones). - Regarding the RX and TX connection, I followed the guidance in an old post of yours from a mkz in which there are images of the wiring and I followed it according to what is in that image. I checked and it is correct. But as a test, I'll invert it and see what happens. -about the configuration with bitwiter in automatic mode is also correct. -The Viper does not issue any fault codes. I press the remote start button, it starts the process (remote start on) I hear the unit's relays "click" doing their work, apparently repeating a sequence three equal times and at that moment the green and purple wires of connection 10 pins show + Constant 12v (I had mentioned this previously) already happens when I turn on the unit (viper brain 5704). The ignition 1 wire (pink) emits a +12v pulse, the accessory wire (orange) emits a +12v pulse. The thick gauge (pink/white) wire does not emit any signal, however the pink/white wire (200mA Ignition 2/Flex OUTPUT) of the 24-pin connector emits a low amperage signal equal to that of the red/white wire (200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT). when the AUX/TRUNK button is pressed on the viper remote control. And then after some time (3 identical processes working) the display shows "remote start error" *I believe this process would be the initialization of the virtual tach* please correct me if I'm wrong. Well, I'm feeling a little dizzy and stupid around here hahaha and with good reason. (my first remote start) but the unit does not emit any error signal sounds. *NOTE: so far I haven't touched/connected the wire (KEYSENSE) to anything and that could be the problem. I didn't know what the function of the keysense wire was and I also don't know which wire to connect to it correctly. very well let's continue... specific wiring details: -Does the vehicle have the factory alarm system? This will determine if the bypass module can provide a hood pin signal and how to wire it to the door locks. *the vehicle does have a factory alarm (apart from the viper 5704v which has yet to be installed). -You didn't specify, but make sure you use the vehicle's (+) Parking Light wire. It's the purple/white wire on the gray 10-pin BCM connector. Place the Viper jumper in the (+) position. *OK. This was done and it is correct, the vehicle's lights flash correctly with the Viper controls. -Since the Viper is also an alarm system, I would not make all 4 of the Viper's +12V input connections to the same blue/red wire from the ignition switch. *I will follow your guidance and make this change. -Notice I said all 4 Viper +12V input wires. I would connect the thick red/white wire to +12V, set the pink/white output to Ignition2, and connect the Pin/White wire to the vehicle's Keysense (+) wire. Keysense = Blue/Gray @ Ignition Switch Pink/white output is Ignition2 as default *a little confusing here... I understand that the pink/white output is ignition2 as standard and has not been changed. OK however, it has a thick PINK/WHITE wire (H3/7) from the 10-pin connector and also has a pink/white wire (H2/1) from the 24-pin connector, both ignition 2/flex relay output. >Which one should I connect to the vehicle's keysense wire (blue/gray)?? >And also if I can directly connect the wire that you tell me is the correct one (H3/7) or (H2/1), to the vehicle's keysense wire or if it needs something like a relay, diode etc.... for example?? >should the (blue/gray) keysense wire receive a positive pulse + (H3/7) or a small negative pulse - (H2/1)?? Note that these are the same pink/white wires as the Viper, but one main R/S is thick gauge and the other is not. -Locks: Having the factory alarm system is complicated as things go. Doing an R/S will turn off the factory alarm system - no problem. Without factory alarm, you can simply use the Vipers lockout (-) outputs for these wires: Electric door lock (all) BLUE\GREEN (-) @ DRIVER KICK Electric door unlocking (all) YELLOW\VIOLET (-) @ DRIVER FLASH *So, here I am with problems because there is a factory alarm on the Ford Fusion 2011 2.5 (not hybrid) in which I am installing Viper 5704v with Omega OL-MDB-ALL bypass. >In this situation should I use tech tip #1921 or would there be another way currently?? (without also having to purchase a DTIMAZDA expresskit) because it should no longer be on sale and also not found on the "market". -Rear defrost: Use H2/3 Blue/White wire. Connect to this vehicle wire: Rear Defrost WHITE\ORANGE (- LOCKED) @ HVAC CONTROLS Use the BitWriter to set Menu 3 Item 11 to Option 2. *Great, thank you very much for this tip :D I'll put it into practice. -Questions and Answers H1/6 Orange Yes, normally used to roll up windows, etc. The hood pin may be required if the factory alarmed vehicle does not have a hood pin. The Viper's ARM and Disarm wires may not be necessary... The correctly programmed bypass module will provide the brake signal and tachometer signal. Check the normal vehicle key starting sequence. If a quick turn to START and release signals the ECM to crank the engine until it starts, Tach mode and tachometer programming are not necessary. However, running in Tach mode will allow the Viper to shut down an R/S engine in the event of an overspeed condition. *OK. I checked and it has the vehicle's original hood pin and also the factory alarm and everything works perfectly. *let's talk about over-rotation protection.. >this is as if the car when starting the viper remote start for some reason accelerates on its own and increases the RPM?? So I would have to connect the violet/white wire (H2/12) tachometer input to the vehicle (perhaps to the negative wire of the fuel injector or to the negative wire of the ignition coil) even though it is an automatic vehicle so that there is this protection against this acceleration undue (high RPM) ?? so in my vehicle I can turn on both virtual tach and tach mode even using a bypass module (omega OL-MDB-ALL or other compatible ones)... but in tech mode it will have this over-rotation protection which, unlike the virtual tach, does not have it. it would be like an additional "optional feature".... Correct me if I got it wrong. -I understand the remote start sequence too here where you say "The Viper then displays (-) Status Output (enables transponder bypass)." This has something to do with the H2/9 wire (dark blue) - 200mA STATUS OUTPUT, this viper wire must be connected somewhere or am I imagining things?? *Note that I am using the omega bypass D2D connection on the viper.* I'm thinking not to rule out the hypothesis that the main device (brain) viper 5704v has some problem like transistors or relays with malfunctions/failures, I'll check this thoroughly and calmly to see if everything is ok or if there is something that is not transmitting current correctly. -This is being very productive, I'm learning a lot more with your instructions and tips. I really want to thank you, but don't leave me yet. I'm going to do some tests and more tests and come back here in a few days or weeks.

kreg357 Please don't forget to answer my questions in the last topic if possible. thank you very much.

"The Viper does not issue any fault codes. I press the remote start button, it starts the process (remote start on) I hear the unit's relays "click" doing their work, apparently repeating a sequence three equal times and at that moment the green and purple wires of connection 10 pins show + Constant 12v (I had mentioned this previously) already happens when I turn on the unit (viper brain 5704). The ignition 1 wire (pink) emits a +12v pulse, the accessory wire (orange) emits a +12v pulse. The thick gauge (pink/white) wire does not emit any signal, however the pink/white wire (200mA Ignition 2/Flex OUTPUT) of the 24-pin connector emits a low amperage signal equal to that of the red/white wire (200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT). when the AUX/TRUNK button is pressed on the viper remote control. And then after some time (3 identical processes working) the display shows "remote start error" *I believe this process would be the initialization of the virtual tach* please correct me if I'm wrong. Well, I'm feeling a little dizzy and stupid around here hahaha and with good reason. (my first remote start)" The Keysense wire may not be mandatory, but you do have an unused Viper ignition output. Keysense is a (+) signal so the thick (+) Pink/White set as IGN2 should be used. Of course, the Viper ING2 relay needs the Red/White wire connected to +12V for this output. It would seem that the Viper is doing its 3 start attempts. Just verify that the IGN, ACC and START outputs are working. "Notice I said all 4 Viper +12V input wires. I would connect the thick red/white wire to +12V, set the pink/white output to Ignition2, and connect the Pin/White wire to the vehicle's Keysense (+) wire. Keysense = Blue/Gray @ Ignition Switch Pink/white output is Ignition2 as default *a little confusing here... I understand that the pink/white output is ignition2 as standard and has not been changed. OK however, it has a thick PINK/WHITE wire (H3/7) from the 10-pin connector and also has a pink/white wire (H2/1) from the 24-pin connector, both ignition 2/flex relay output." As mentioned above, the Keysense wire needs a (+) so the thick H3/7 Pink/White wire directly connected is correct. The problem with the Factory Alarm system has to do with the Viper turning it OFF and ON. To turn the Factory Alarm system OFF, the Viper must pulse the bypass transponder and the main IGN1 wire. Some R/S units have this ability via option programming. Don't believe this is possible on the Viper. The Viper will automatically pulse the transponder bypass ( think (-) Status Output) with a Disarm command but does nothing to the IGN1. You can use the Vipers Arm output a relay to pulse the vehicles IGN1 wire. For the Viper to Arm the Factory Alarm system, it must send a Lock command at the same time the drivers door is open. This is done using a relay to open the Drivers door pin signal. Driver Front Door Status   GREEN\VIOLET (-N.C.)    @ SJB GRAY 26 PIN CONN, PIN 14 The relay is needed due to Ford going with N.C. door pin status. Remember that the Bypass module will supply the Doors, Trunk and Hood status' to the Viper via D2D for the Vipers alarm needs so Tech Tip 1921 is not needed. If I remember correctly, you can set the Factory Alarm if you want to without the factory remote by pressing the interior door lock button while the door is open, then close the door. Also, a R/S turns off the Factory alarm ( IGN1 + Transponder) so a R/S and then vehicle entry would be no problem. The Factory alarm does not go off immediately when a door is opened, There is a 10 of 15 second countdown on the instrument cluster to give you time to insert the key and turn it to ON. "*let's talk about over-rotation protection.. >this is as if the car when starting the viper remote start for some reason accelerates on its own and increases the RPM?? So I would have to connect the violet/white wire (H2/12) tachometer input to the vehicle (perhaps to the negative wire of the fuel injector or to the negative wire of the ignition coil) even though it is an automatic vehicle so that there is this protection against this acceleration undue (high RPM) ??" When the Bypass module is correctly programmed to the vehicle it will provide a Tach signal. Setting the Viper to Tach Mode and doing a Tach Learn will allow the Over-Rev Protection to work. "here where you say "The Viper then outputs (-) Status Output (enables transponder bypass)." This has something to do with the H2/9 wire (dark blue) - 200mA STATUS OUTPUT, this viper wire must be connected somewhere or am I imagining things?? *Note that I am using the omega bypass D2D connection on the viper.*" The Viper H2/9 Dark Blue wire is there and works but rendered un-necessary as that signal is sent to the Bypass module via D2d data. No need for a wired connection. It is rare to get a OBF on a brand new factory supplied unit. If your system is used, refurb or from a private seller all bets are off. If the Viper is outputting +12V on the thick Violet starter as soon as the Viper get power, that's not good. The only things the bypass module needs to program to the car is all connections properly made and two working unique keys. The bypass must see the vehicles IGN signal (pink wire) during programming.Soldering is fun!

hello here I am again :) So, I discovered that the viper 5704v's brain unit had two ''1P'' SMD transistors with low resistance (broken), I replaced the components and guess what, the unit returned to normal operation, the thick violet and green wires no longer emit the constant +12v signal when the viper unit is turned on. Now they emit the signal only when there is a remote start. (correct operation) finally. Furthermore, I tested most of the functions available on the unit and everything works normally now. I'm very happy and satisfied so far. I haven't done the installation on the Ford Fusion yet, I hope to have enough time tomorrow to do that and see if things actually work with the remote start and then make the other connections for the Viper 5704v's security alarm. I'm recapping and reviewing all the previous posts so I can start installing tomorrow. If I have any other questions I will come back soon, but I hope to come back to say that everything went well. Praying for it :-D. I also wanted to know how I can post images here because I tried the other day and I can't load them...do I need any further authorization from the forum for this?? It would be interesting to post some images of the installation process here in the post...(things would be more ''clarified'') Thanks again :-D I don't remember if I mentioned it, but I'm from BRAZIL (country) My English is not fluent, but I use Google Translate and so far communication has been great. Another doubt that came to mind now and no less important: the Ford's Fusion's from the years (2010, 2011, 2012) that were imported to Brazil were produced in the MEXICO factory. So will this interfere with the programming and acceptance of alarms produced in the USA? I mean the Viper's and Omega devices will only work with the electronic systems of vehicles produced in the USA and CANADA?? Or am I once again imagining things??

One more thing I forgot to mention... the tests I did were on the bench with a 12v source, so I was able to test and observe that the functions of the viper unit work normally after the repair I made (replacement of the ''1P transistor'' components 'broken) Once again, if you can give me details of what an Over-Rev would be... I know it has this protection, making the wire connection and programming correct, OK. But I still don't understand what this Over-Rev is, can you give me a more ''practical'' example??