Need Help finding hole thru firewall

I am ready to install my amplifier and need help finding an existing hole thru my firewall. I have a 96 Honda Accord and I want to install this amp under the passenger seat. I'm hoping to run my Power on the right hand side of my car straight to the battery, but cannot locate a hole in the firewall. Can someone out there please provide me some direction? Also, is there a trick to pulling up the seat?

Thanks,

Razorbacx

To remove the seat you'll have to remove the 4 bolts that secure the seat's frame to the floor of the vehicle.  Oftentimes they are hidden underneath some plastic covers that you'll have to pop off.  Just to warn you these bolts are going to be on VERY tight and most likely you'll need not only the proper size socket but something with a long handle to get enough leverage to loosen them.  And they have a bunch of tiny threads on them so be prepared for it to take a while.  Also make sure that if you have power seats, you unplug the connector underneath the seat before yanking the seat out of the car, so that you don't break the cable.

Does the car have a manual transmission or automatic?  If it's automatic, you can drill straight through the diamond-shaped metal plate near the brake pedals, where the clutch would normally run through the firewall.  There may be an existing grommet on the passenger's side but usually if there is one on that side, it's way up high behind the dash and thus inaccesible unless you want to remove the entire dashboard (don't even think about doing this if the vehicle has a passenger's airbag!!).

Most likely if you cannot find an existing hole after looking for a long time, there isn't gonna be one available and you'll probably have to drill one yourself.  Just make sure you double check what's on both sides of the firewall before you start drilling!

esmith69, thanks for the info, but I got impatient last night and got busy on my amp install. I did find and this may be good for any future advice, an existing hole on the passenger side, nearly dead center of the floor board, just an inch above the kick plate. You've got to do some feeling around, but I was able to locate it and ran my Power thru that hole. I figured out the seat and those little plastic covers. You're right about the bolts and the thousand tiny threads, but I conquered it without much of a wimper. However, when reinstalling the seat you MUST reinstall the front bolts first, the rear right bolt and then the rear left one (Passenger Seat), otherwise the seat will not sit square and you will, like I did until common sense kicked in, fight that last remaining bolt (Front Left one...closest to the center console). I finally had to remove all the bolts and restart.

I got my amp installed under the seat right behind the air vent hoping that it will suffice to keep my amp cool, but it still gets hot. Not so hot that you can't touch it, but it is very warm. Should I worry about that or just let it go? I'm running it at a 2 OHM Load with my speakers ran in paralell:

Front Right POS to Front Left POS

Front Right NEG to Front Left NEG

Rear Right POS to Rear Left POS

Rear Left NEG to Rear Left NEG

I did this at the wiring harness that I purchased to snap into the factory harness so that I could have clean wire to work with to the HU. I then connected with solder and heat shrink speaker wire that I then ran to the amp. I used the existing speaker wiring in the car. Should I install an additional fan?

Thanks,

Razorbacx

The amp that I have is a Coustic 161SE. Here is a link in case you want to look at the specs http://www.coustic.com/products/amplifiers/161SE.cfm.

Thanks,

Razorbacx

The amp should turn off automatically before it gets hot enough to damage itself, so I don't think you need to worry about that.  Besides, this amp can run a 2-ohm stereo load, and assuming you're powering 4 regular speakers and not 1 or 2 subwoofers, that 2-ohm stereo load is really easy to achieve.

You can probably get away with just using two 16-gauge speaker cables (each one having its own positive and negative wire).  Each cable will hook up to one of the amp's two channels as if you were hooking up just two speakers, and you'll run the two cables up to the head unit's harness.  Then you'll hook up both of the positive wires for the left side (front and rear) speakers to the single positive wire you have going directly to the amplifier's left channel.  And likewise you'll do the same thing for the negative terminal.  Then the right side speakers are the exact same except you'll use the speaker cable that's going to the amp's right channel output instead.

I wasn't sure if this was in fact how you ended up wiring the speakers or not, so I figured I'd mention it just in case.

One last thing i thought of....doesn't hot air from the heater come out of those same vents on the floor that you mounted the amp in front of?

esmith69, thanks again for taking the time to answer my questions. I installed the speakers just like you stated above and you're right about the vent...never took that into consideration. I guess I can, during the winter months, place a rag in the vent to stop most of the hot air from getting to the amp, although the winters here in Arkansas are generally pretty mild.

BTW....this little amp ROCKS! It has some real puch to it and has drasticaly improved my systems sound. I don't know much about the Coustic product line, but so far so good.

Razorbacx