Slow Cranking

Thanks again Man - I'm hoping I'll get a chance to try this tonight.

I looked in the installation instructions and it says to ensure the OEM supply (if not using the harness wire) is fused at greater than 30 amps. I'll see what's available at my local auto parts store.

Yes this is for a 1992 Pathfinder. I think there were 2 ignition wires (one smaller than the other), as I mentioned in the initial post. Do I need to hook the second one up as well?

Actually, I just looked at the manufacturer's instructions and there is an additional high-current output lead in the module's wiring harness that I didn't use. It says it can be used for 2nd Ignition, 2nd starter or 2nd accessories wire (depending on the jumper settings). The module has a high-current, programmable 5th relay (programmed by the jumpers).

I guess I should try hooking this lead to the second Ignition wire on my OEM harness.

Do you think this would work?

Thanks for all the help Guys, I think I (with your help, of course) have fixed it up.

I installed that fifth relay on the second wire yesterday. The wire in the OEM harness was actually a Starter only wire (not ignition). So I set the jumpers on the module to "Starter", tested it for current, and hooked 'er up. Cranking seemed better right away. So I let it sit over night and tried again this morning. It was not as cold as the previous morning, but still pretty cool. She cranked over real well and fired up as quick as she would using the key.

I THINK I GOT IT !!!!

Now I just need to figure out why my trunk lead is sending a continuous signal rather than a pulse, and I should be set.

Thanks again for all the help - - like I said before, I LOVE THE INTERNET !! The information available is absolutely amazing.

Thanks "Me". ;-)))

I assume this setting is programmable, but the manufacturer's literature does not seem to get into this. The manual does talk about "pulse" (for trunks, etc) vs. "press and hold" (for sunroofs, etc.).

What my mudule is doing is sending a continuous signal. In other words, I press and release the button - the trunk (rear window hatch) solenoid releases the latch. But instead of the signal being a "pulse", allowing the latch to close immediately afterward, the signal remains, keeping the latch open. This signal seems to remain constant until I physically pull the connectors off of the relay (which I used to reverse the pulse signal from (-) to (+)). I'm not sure what's up with this.

Any thoughts on this?