160XV and power door lock problem

I have tried wiring up my door locks about 20 different ways and still can't get it to work.. :evil: Reading other forums like 12Volt, Ford Truck Enthusiast, etc... It looks that I have a five wire negative polarity lock system. My 160XV came with a 451M and I have tried it both ways that 12Volt recommends (For five wire and reverse polarity)both on the switch side (Pink/Green and Pink / YELLOW) and on the motor side (Pink/Black and Pink/Orange). I read somewhere else that if I cut either of the lock/unlock wires and try the buttons, if it is a five wire system then I should lose both driver side and passenger side functions. I didn't, I only lost one side and one function on the other side. That same forum then said that it is not since my switch tested that way then I don't have a reverse polarity system but most likely a positive or negative trigger system. On the many forums that I looked I have seen different ways to wire relays (most say to just get a 451M to make it easier) but I just can't get it to work. On the 451M the relay triggers for both lock and unlock, that should signify that the relay triggers and voltage are correct. So it should just be a matter of where I wire the other leads coming out of the 451M. Other forums have stated that the 160XV can be used for negative pulse and positive pulse but I can't find anything in the manual to specify. If anyone has any experience with this thing please let me know. It was a Christmas gift from the wife and all other functions work except the door locks. Maybe something in the programming? It arms and disarms with a press of the lock/unlock button on the FOB. 2000 F150 2WD XLT

Did the truck come with factory keyless? If it did the truck has negative pulse locks....If the truck DID NOT have factory keyless, they are reverse polarity. (5 wire) You do not need the 451M, its a resitor pack if you will. Its for chrysler products, not fords...at least not yours

like this for reverse polarity https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w

like this for negative trigger    This is one of the most common type of door lock switch configurations found in most vehicles. In most cases you will not need to add relays for this type. Most of the newer alarms and keyless entries on the market today have both positive and negative 200 ma door lock outputs that are usually capable of activating the factory relays. Should you need to add relays for a "3 wire negative" door lock system, just change both normally open terminals (87) from 12V(+) to ground. If your alarm or keyless entry has positive outputs only, you will have to connect the other side of the coils to ground  and connect your outputs as shown. The lock and unlock wires below refer to the switch leads, not the motor legs.

 

I bought the truck used and don't know. I have 5 wires coming out of the switch, but like in my post- one site says that by cutting one of the switch lock/unlock wires I can tell what I have, I did this and according to that site I don't have a reverse polarity system. When cut one switch does not work at all and one only has one function depending on which wire I cut. I've been over the whole factory keyless or not thing and don't know. That is why I mentioned about cutting one of the lock/unlock wires to test. If testing the switch like that won't tell me, then how can I tell which system I have?