2003 dodge ram 1500 remote starter issues

Alright so I'm putting in a remote starter into my truck. I've done a few before. By far not an expert but I have always been able to get em going eventually ;) I purchased a Titan TS152 remote starter and grabbed the iDataLink Multi Series ADS-AL CA CH6 bypass module. Everythings good to go there, haven't encountered any problems finding any wires yet everythings going pretty decent. Bypass module was programmed/learned and so was the tach wire. I don't have all my wires hooked up yet but of course I'm anxious to get it working so I started seeing what was working. I don't have the park light or door pin wires hooked up yet. Not really thinking this is a big deal tho as park lights are just an indicator and door pin is just making sure the doors are closed. Will hook up but shouldn't be a big deal in the meantime right? Anyways so I set up my relays/resistors for my door locks and I can get them to lock but when I hit unlock nothing happens (even tried hitting it a second time in case it needs double pulse) my relays are both clicking in when they should. Just wondering how much variance your allowed in your resistors. I'm pretty close to 330 ohms but maybe thats my problem? Doesn't make sense it would be anything else if lock is working would it? Then onto my start function. I hit start and nothing happens at all. No lights come on, on my dash, or anything. So it seems to me its not initiating at all. The remote starter troubleshooting says "Ignition On" thats it. Any insight into this would be great! (Keys were not in the ignition when I tried lol).

If you are using an iDatalink ADS AL CA bypass module flashed with the ADS AL(DL) CH6

firmware there is no reason to use relays and resistors for the locks.  Connect the R/S'slock and unlock outputs directly to the ADS AL CA as shown in the Type 3 Install diagram ( assuming W2W connections and not D2D mode ).

Did you set the Installation Mode on the bypass module?  Did it program as per the guide?

While the Type 3 install diagram does not show it, you still must make all the connections

from the R/S to the ignition wires.  http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=867&link=Bulldog  

Soldering is fun!

I am using D2D mode it was just easier really. No extra uneccessary wires you know just tryin to keep it cleaner anyways :p I did set the installation mode properly tho and I have the ignition wire spliced through the bypass module and the j1583 (or whatever it is) wire connected to it as well. I think I will probably be able to get my unlock to work if I play with the resistors and go maybe a bit more or bit less. Any idea on my starting issue tho? With it coming back "Ignition On"? Can't really see any other explanations for this other then the key being in and turned to the On position (which it wasn't).

If you are running D2D, did you  program the TS152 M1-7 to 1 for the iDatalink module.  The D2D harness handles all

of the Black dashed lines in the CH6 Type 3 diagram.  Not sure if the TS152 is iDatalink 2Way capable, if it is then the Red solid lines are taken care of also.  If not 2way capable, then the Red solid lines have to be hard wired. 

The iDatalinks Orange wire connection to the vehicles J1850 wire  will handle the Locks, Alarm  and bypass.  There should

be no need to connect the TS152's lock outputs, thru resistors & relays, to the vehicles lock wire.

Soldering is fun!

It had crossed my mind earlier that it may only be 1 way and not 2 way compatible, but kind of put it aside till you reminded me there. You definately have me thinking about hardwiring it anyways now just to eliminate one issue, and not worry about playing with resistors. I just assumed it had the plug for the data cable that it would have to be a 2 way system. Thanks for the help on that issue. I am emailing back and forth with Titan about the starting problem, but they don't seem to be very helpful. Asked a couple simple questions, then tried telling me it was defective lol. Gonna play with it a bit more then that before I take it back for exchange.

Would I not want to make sure that I DONT select D2D mode? Being in D2D mode would not consist of having the bypass module hard-wired to the remote starter and it not working. Or did I mis-understand something?

ok is it possible my relays are interfering with the J wire? I can't see me having screwed that part up considering its just the one wire lol

W2W consists of having the bypass and the remote start wires hardwires together.  You need to select Hardwired Mode if this is what you did and not D2D.