How to Test Fuel Injector Frequency?

Peter, Kevin your comments are way above my head, knowledge wise, BUT my assumption is that the poster simply needs tach sensing for a remote start so all of this is using a steam hammer to crack a nut! If the poster told us what vehicle we could give him/her a quick answer.

It was a 2001 Ford Escape and I went to the non-common wire at the coil pack. The injectors are ridiculous to get to on this vehicle. Eventually, I went on all data and grabbed a injector wire at the ECU, but I would rather not have to go threw all that running around for a tach signal. No they said nothing about the number of injector pulses. On past crimestopper units I have had no problem whatsoever on grabbing a tach signal at a coil. Now on the new units the coil seems to be hit or miss. The crimestopper tech said that they did something different this year because the noise from the coil packs was causing range issues with the units. I was just trying to gain a little knowledge from this post. I didn't think it would become this big of a discussion/confussionI drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Correction: Gain knowledge about how to test for frequency with my DMM/O-Scope. I've been installing for about 7 years and never heard of testing for frequency for a tach signal. I know how to find a tach signal. I'm not a rookie like my profile says. I just wanted to make sure I was testing for it correctly. There is no such thing as too much knowledge. Sorry for any confusion on my post.I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

You WERE testing correctly, I set the DMM to the 20VAC scale, pos to suspect wire and neg to ground, you should get a reading of 3-7 VAC when revving up. If you had access to the engine management pin outs and they were inside the car, I'd have gone for an injector wire or better still there may have been a tach input/output.

P.S. Just realised the engines are the same as the UK Ford Mondeos, done loads of R/S on them with no problems.

howie ll wrote: Peter, Kevin your comments are way above my head, knowledge wise, BUT my assumption is ...

Exactly! Why go for an ECU/injector signal with all its complications (unless the specific vehicle/EFI is described). And since "old" tach signals are easy to get, why not continue? If it is simply a go/n-go signal, then scaling isn't an issue (and injectors could be used), but for coil packs it's usually /2 or /3 or maybe /4 etc.