Viper 5704, 2002 Nissan S15 Silvia (AU)

I received my Viper 5704 the other day and before I get stuck into the install I've put together a list of connections I believe I need to make. Before I risk ruining the alarm, or even worse - the car, I'm hoping to get some feedback and find out if I've made any mistakes. I'm installing this into a 2002 Australian Delivered Nissan Silvia (200SX) S15, this doesn't have an alarm or an immobiliser. I've browsed the forums and the instructions and I believe this is all that is required. H1 Main Harness, 6-pin connector
 H1/1 (+) 12VDC Constant Input     : 12V Constant 
H1/2 (-) Chassis Ground   : Chassis Ground
 H1/3 (+) Siren Output   : Red Wire On Siren 
H1/4 Parking Light Isolation Wire     : ? 
H1/5 Parking Light Output : Parking Light Positive
 H1/6 (-) 500mA Ground When Armed Output : - H2 Harness, 24-pin connector 
H2/1 (-) 200mA Ignition/Flex Relay Control Output     : - 
H2/2 (-) Neutral Safety Input : Ground when handbrake is active
 H2/3 (-) 200mA 2nd Status/Rear Defogger Output     : -
 H2/4 (-) 200mA OEM Alarm Disarm Output : -
 H2/5 (-) 200MA Trunk Release Output : - 
H2/6 (-) Door Trigger Input (N/C* OR N/O) : Ground when door is open
 H2/7 (-) Dome Light Supervision Output : -
 H2/8 (-) 200mA Horn Honk Output : -
 H2/9 (-) 200mA Status Output : -
 H2/10 (-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output : -
 H2/11 (-) 200mA Aux 3 Output : -
 H2/12 (+) Door Trigger Input : 12V when door is open
 H2/13 (-) 200mA Aux 1 Output : -
 H2/14 (-) 200mA Aux 2 Output : -
 H2/15 (-) 200mA Aux 4 Output : -
 H2/16 (+) Brake Shutdown Input : 12v when foot brake is active H2/17 (-) Hood Pin Input (N/C OR N/O) : Hood Pin
 H2/18 (-) 200mA Starter Output : - 
H2/19 (-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input (N/C OR N/O) : - 
 H2/20 (-) Diesel Wait To Start Input : -
 H2/21 (-) Remote Start/Turbo Timer Activation Input : - 
H2/22 (-) 200mA Accessory Output : -
 H2/23 Tachometer Input : Tacho wire or specific wire running to coilpack H2/24 (-) 200mA OEM Alarm Arm Output: - H3 Remote Start, 10-pin connector
 H3/1 (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output : 12V Constant
 H3/2 (87) Flex Relay + 12V Input (30A Fused)     : - 
H3/3 (+) Accessory Output   : -
 H3/4 (+) Starter Output        : Car side of cut starter wire
 H3/5 (+) Starter Input        : Key side of cut starter wire
 H3/6 Ignition 1 + 12V Input (30A fused)     : 12V Constant
 H3/7 (30) Flex Relay Output   : - 
H3/8 (87a) Flex Relay Input   : -
 H3/9 Accessory/Starter Relay + 12V Input (30A fused) : -
 H3/10 No Connection

I can't find any wiring info on the Silvia.  They stopped the U.S. 200sx

in 1998.  Perhaps Howard has some info because your H3 harness is incompleteand incorrect for remote starting.

H3/1 (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output      :  Ignition 1

H3/2 (87) Flex Relay  (30A Fused)             :  +12V ConstantH3/3 (+) Accessory Output               :  Accessory 1H3/4 (+) Starter Output            :  Car side of cut starter wire
 **H3/5 (+) Starter Input             :  Key side of cut starter wire
 H3/6 Ignition 1  12V Input                  :  12V Constant
 H3/7 (30) Flex Relay Output              :  Selectable for Ign2, Acc2 or Starter2
H3/8 (87a) Flex Relay Input               :  Probably not used   ***H3/9 Acc/Starter 12V Input (30A fused)        :  +12V ConstantH3/10 No Connection

**  There might be two Starter wires on that Nissan.

***  I think some of the Altima's needed to isolate one of the ACC's during remote start. 

Soldering is fun!

H3/10 also needs to see a constant. There might well be 2 starters, also an Aussie spec might have an immobiliser requiring a by-pass. Apart from your ign 1 correction what are the poster's specific questions, also I believe this Silvia was a newer shape to the ones in the US and UK, double din radio per chance? It's an easy car to do from the point of Kregg or myself we would simply test everything as we went. Pop the instrument panel it may give you tach though I doubt it, engine management in centre console more likely. It would help you to have a wiring diagram. Also pop the instrument cluster, door trigger, trunk trigger if there's a warning light, indicators (your white wire via 2 x 1N5404 3amp diodes), also probably room behind to mount the CPU and bring the wiring down from there, nice and stealthy. That's what I did on my last Nissan. I have no tech info but it isn't hard to do. The locks might be 1 wire, yellow red or RED / yellow goes to ground to luck and open circuit to unlock, or vice versa, in kickwell loom to driver's door

Cleared my thoughts. On loom H/3 RED / Black, RED / White and Red all need to go to a constant, either ignition wire, battery + or heavy gauge feed (White?) to fusebox. Ref 2nd Starter cut the first either use flex or if 2 ignitions add on relay for second start. Colours are probably the same as that year's Altima.

This is a guess, but Nissan Altima L31 for the wiring. Nothing on Directwire, they used to list Japan and the UK but that's all gone because of their retreat. I suppose he could call Karl at DEI used to be based in the UK, now international manager.

Thanks for the prompt replies! I realised that I forgot to include an important piece of information about that The 200SX line as we know it in Australia is the 240SX line that you know in America. I have a complete factory service manual including wiring diagrams from the US S14 and the AUS S15, I'm going through it as we speak so that I can determine if the two vehicles use similar wiring? (Literally the only difference between the AUS S14 and S15 are the body shapes, everything else is the same) I'm just trying to determine if there are any wiring differences between the US S14 and the AUS S15, so that I can use the S14 wiring diagram from bulldogsecurity.com The trouble I'm having is, the diagram from BulldogSecurity states that the S14 240SX has two starters, yet the FSM for the S14 240SX doesn't have any mention of a second starter. If I can confirm that my vehicle only has one starter does this mean that I don't need to connect H3/7 to the second starter? Also Howard, are you sure that H3/10 needs to see 12v constant? The manual tells me that it doesn't have a connection and there's no wire coming from that location on the plug.

No I'm not sure which is why you have to put aside the manuals and TEST. As for two starters most Nissans had them at the time. It may not be listed as a starter, it's actually an enrichment device that's wired in parallel with the starter. Also since I don't have a chart in front of me could you please list the colours as well as pin numbers, H3/10 sky blue pink etc. That's why I had to go back and download the manual.

I'd much rather throw the manuals out and test everything instead, the only trouble is, I'm not 100% sure on what I'm looking for when I'm testing. H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output    : Ignition 1 H3/2 RED / White (87) Flex Relay (30A Fused) : +12V Constant H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory Output : Accessory 1 H3/4 Violet (+) Starter Output    : Car side of cut starter wire
 ** H3/5 Green (+) Starter Input        : Key side of cut starter wire
 H3/6 Red Ignition 1 12V Input: 12V Constant
 H3/7 Pink/White (30) Flex Relay Output  : Selectable for Ign2, Acc2 or Starter2 
H3/8 Pink/Black (87a) Flex Relay Input : Probably not used   *** H3/9 RED / Black Acc/Starter 12V Input (30A fused)        : +12V Constant H3/10 No Connection - Literally no wire coming from this terminal. More specific question. H1/5 White is the parking light output. Is it safe to connect this directly to the parking light positive wire? I don't want to send 12V to the alarm brain when I turn on the lights and bugger anything up.

OK testing. Every function on this vehicle apart from tach can be tested easily with a test light with a bulb such as a Snap-On CT45 or Mac equivalent. Cheap substitutes will fall apart. The first choice is a DMM though. How to test e.g. ignition switch. One or more (with key out) will test at 12V+ Insert key and turn to ACC again more show 12V+ Ditto ignition and starter. Lights, use the indicators, either at haz switch or steering column. Ignition on, stalk left again test as it flashes on-off strip the wire. Repeat with stalk right etc. Take the white lead and make a "Y" connector with a 1N5404 in each leg and join to the stripped wires. Tach will probably be a blue wire to rear of gauges, if not injectors (you will have two wires going into each injector, one colour common to all injectors, + another different colour at each plug, one of the different colours)or engine management. If a DMM set it to 20VAC black probe to ground, red to suspect wire with engine running should should get 3-5VAC, increasing slightly as you rev up. You probably have enough space behind the instrument panel to mount the unit and conceal everything. Test and verify every connection before soldering.