viper alarm triggers 5 mins after r start

A second chirp when arming means an entry point (door, hood, trunk) is open when arming. A second chirp after hitting lock twice means zone 2 was bypassed and every press of the remote thereafter bypasses another zone with the siren chirping that many times. Have you tried (or can you try) W2W with bypass to Viper instead of D2D?       The DEI bypasses can work ok when they feel like it but too many issues with them is one reason I use strictly iDatalink or Fortin bypasses.

shortcircuit161 wrote: A second chirp when arming means an entry point (door, hood, trunk) is open when arming. A second chirp after hitting lock twice means zone 2 was bypassed and every press of the remote thereafter bypasses another zone with the siren chirping that many times. Have you tried (or can you try) W2W with bypass to Viper instead of D2D?       The DEI bypasses can work ok when they feel like it but too many issues with them is one reason I use strictly iDatalink or Fortin bypasses.

I'll try w2w. it's just connecting the d2d cable directly to power and no other changes? the manual isn't clear.

That's correct. You can also just cut the blue and green wires from the D2D harness since the red and black already get power and ground from the Viper unit thru the D2D plug. Make sure you unplug the D2D cable from the viper unit to remove power from the bypass before cutting the wires. You then need to reprogram the unit so it knows that it's no longer connected in D2D.

shortcircuit161 wrote: That's correct. You can also just cut the blue and green wires from the D2D harness since the red and black already get power and ground from the Viper unit thru the D2D plug. Make sure you unplug the D2D cable from the viper unit to remove power from the bypass before cutting the wires. You then need to reprogram the unit so it knows that it's no longer connected in D2D.

Did w2w, reprogrammed and the alarm hasn't triggered during R/S in 6 tries.. I think the problem has been solved! A BIG thanks to you guys for all the help!!

Very cool! Glad to hear it's working. Ironically, I had an issue with D2D last night that made me think of this post. I installed a Crimestopper RS4-G3 on a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee (super easy vehicle) and used an INT-SL+ from Fortin which is similar to the DLPK. The Crimestopper can go D2D with Fortin or iDatalink modules. Install went flawless until about 5-8 minutes of it running. It would keep shutting down!! I thought maybe it was a tach issue since I took it from the module. I went direct to an injector, relearned tach and it still would shut off after a few minutes (not the full 20 minutes). I rewired everything W2W and reprogrammed, worked great after that. I love the idea of D2D but as many here can tell you, it's not very reliable to the point that we can bet our life on it. W2W all the way for me now!