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viper 5902 + dball in hyundai 2012


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offroadzj 
Gold - Posts: 2,043
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: March 06, 2013 at 6:03 AM / IP Logged  
Something you may want to look into is a Compustar FT DAS. It is a 3-in-1 digital sensor that includes shock, tilt, and forward movement. The only thing I am not sure of is whether it is able to be hardwired or if it can only connect to a Compustar system. It might be something to look into since it will eliminate 2 of your sensors and give you an added forward movement detection sensor.
Someone may be able to chime in here on whether or not it is able to be hardwired (may just be data to/from Compustar systems only)
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
tameros 
Copper - Posts: 75
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2011
Location: Egypt
Posted: March 06, 2013 at 7:43 AM / IP Logged  
Howie are the sensors set right, is it better to connect diodes to the connections of the sensor triggers going to 516L module as protection?
Another question i read in a post that i should install diodes on all sensors wires and also on ground when armed. Is that right?
Also read some sensors are positive trigger and others are negative trigger and they said that proximity and tilt are negative trigger, if that is true do i have any positive trigger sensors
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: March 06, 2013 at 7:53 AM / IP Logged  
Yes to all but the last question.
ALL sensors send a NEG (-) trigger.
I know you won't listen but first try to get the R/S working properly then add those extras in increments.
As for the 516L, I've never known one to work properly and I won't install them.
tameros 
Copper - Posts: 75
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2011
Location: Egypt
Posted: March 06, 2013 at 4:19 PM / IP Logged  
all the diodes i ordered came 1N4001
is there difference between 1N4001 & 1N4004
tameros 
Copper - Posts: 75
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2011
Location: Egypt
Posted: March 07, 2013 at 2:55 PM / IP Logged  
Which sensors must be power killed when R/S is on?
Is that way written below right?
Connect the sensors to be killed to a relay pin 87a that is NC, and 30 pin to the sensors +12 VDC constant power source.
R/S unit H2/14 Pink wire (+) 200 mA Ignition 2 output to pin 86, pin 85 to chassis ground
tameros 
Copper - Posts: 75
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2011
Location: Egypt
Posted: March 08, 2013 at 5:13 PM / IP Logged  
Hello Howard
the defogger works fine now after R/S, and set the feature on R/S unit (status 2 output --> pulse rear defogger as the latch doesn't shut off the defogger on second press). when i press again the remote while it is in pulse mode it shuts off the defogger fine, but shows as the first press "Defogger ON". Is there a way that on the second pulse it shows on the remote "Defogger OFF"
I tested the brake pedal wire using DMM without depressing and in ignition on and it shows 0 volt.
I also cut the wire from DBALL pin 6 [Grey (+) Brake status output] to R/S unit H2/17 [Brown (+) Brake shutdown input], insulated and loomed DBALL pin 6 [Grey (+) Brake status output]. Connected H2/17 to the brake pedal line to the stop lamp at the side pannel. The remote start works fine now, it showed only one time "Brake ON" from about 15 test remote starts.
Tomorrow will start to connect the sensors but one by one, connecting one and testing it if OK then other, and so on.
Then will switch kill all sensors except the proximity 508D sensor and test it for a couple of days, if it is working fine alone will test another, I will test each sensor separately for a couple of days.
Then if they all work fine separately and are set right no false alarms and the sensitivity is right not too high not too low, then I will start the last phase to combine them in line together but one by one and check each time for a couple of days for false alarms. Till they work all together in harmony.
What do u think? and waiting for any comments
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: March 08, 2013 at 6:06 PM / IP Logged  
1N4001 are okay for the sensors, it's just that in Europe and the US, 4004 has become the common one because 1, 2, etc. relate to PIV or peak inverse voltage, 1 = 100, 2 = 200 etc.
With relays, you can get around a 200 volt spike when the relay shuts down.
Hence 400 volts, or 4004.
4001 diodes are fine for the sensors, you'll only be dealing with c. 28 volts.
As for the defogger off, sorry, I haven't a clue.
tameros 
Copper - Posts: 75
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2011
Location: Egypt
Posted: March 08, 2013 at 6:08 PM / IP Logged  
I used 1N4001 on the relays, is that OK?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: March 08, 2013 at 6:12 PM / IP Logged  
Not really, fingers crossed as they say.
tameros 
Copper - Posts: 75
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2011
Location: Egypt
Posted: March 08, 2013 at 6:14 PM / IP Logged  
So better to change them to 1N4004?
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