viper 5902 + dball in hyundai 2012

Howard on your Post: 23 February 2013 at 11:50 AM You wrote "You have 2 reds, a RED / black, and a RED / white. Power (connect) them all to a constant source but you should only need about 15 amps for ALL because you are switching data through the DB-ALL rather than power." You mean the 2 reds (RED / black + RED / white) on DBALL? isn't the RED / Black (-)TRUNK STATUS OUTPUT on DBALL supposed to connect to H1/7 Blue on Viper [(-) TRUNK PIN / INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT]. and isn't the RED / White (-) TRUNK INPUT on DBALL supposed to connect to H1/1 RED / White on Viper [(-) 200 mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT]. SO why should I connect them to constant +12V power and put them a fuse 15A, aren't both 2 different signals, I am sure I miss understood the post somehow. Can you please clarify I got really confused, as I am preparing all connections now and label them for the installation. Then later i have some question about some settings on Viper and a couple of connections that still are not clear and trying to search

I am sorry it is taking a longtime to install because I am trying to be accurate and because I can only work on this after I am back home from work. So pls be patient with me. Thanks

No I meant on the R/S unit only the red to 12V+ and the black to ground on the DB-ALL follow the W2W diagram you showed.

13 red and 14 black, blue plug on the DB-ALL

Yes the red wires from R/S unit and the DBALL to +12V Constant, the 2 black ground wires on R/S unit and DBALL to car chassis Some other question

For the violet/white on the red DBALL connector it states (AC) Tach output, on the R?S Unit H2/9 violet/white Tachometer input. Does it handle the AC from the DBALL unit?
Can i leave the D2D connection connected between the R/S unit and DBALL unit in addition to W2W connection or must i remove it.
Is the connection of Panic input on DBALL from H2/6 Aux 1 output necessary if my car has no panic button on the OEM remote.

For the violet/white on the red DBALL connector it states (AC) Tach output, on the R?S Unit H2/9 violet/white Tachometer input. Does it handle the AC from the DBALL unit? Yes. Connect one to the other. This is the good thing about wiring D2D. If it doesn't work, you can still hard wire from H2/9 it to a tach feed in the car Can i leave the D2D connection connected between the R/S unit and DBALL unit in addition to W2W connection or must i remove it. No, remove it. Is the connection of Panic input on DBALL from H2/6 Aux 1 output necessary if my car has no panic button on the OEM remote. Don't bother with it.

The following cables on the R/S unit i don't need right any future connection on my car? H1/4 WHITE/ Brown Parking light isolation wire - pin 87a of on board relay H1/10 WHITE/ Blue (-) Remort start / Turbotimer activation input (not needed right) H2/7 Grey/Black (-) Diesel wait to start input (as my car is not diesel) H2/11 Pink/White (-) 200 mA flex relay control output H2/12 Orange (-) 200 mA Accessory output H2/13 Purple (-) 200 mA Starter output H2/14 Pink (-) 200 mA Ignition 1 output H2/16 BLACK/ White (-) Neutral safety input (as my car is automatic) H3/2 RED / White (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 2 / Flex relay Input 87 H3/5 Green (+) Starter input (key side of starter kill) H3/6 Red (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 1 Input H3/8 Pink/Black (+) flex relay input 87a key side (if required) of flex relay H3/9 RED / Black (+) Fused (30A) Accessory / starter input I think DBALL already is alternative for those connection on the R/S unit, so don't need them to right? H1/6 Violet (+) Door Trigger input H1/9 BLACK/ White (-) 200 mA Dome light supervision output H2/1 Light GREEN/ Black (-) 200 mA OEM Alarm disarm output H2/3 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200 mA OEM Alarm arm output H2/8 BROWN / Black (-) 200 mA horn honk output Those i need still ready the R/S unit, right? H1/3 Brown (+) Siren output (Will need it to trigger the sirens) H1/12 Orange (-) 500 mA ground when armed (Will need to arm the sensors) H2/2 ORANGE / Black (-)200mA Aux 4 Output + H2/4 Violet/Black (-)200mA Aux 2 Output + H2/5 WHITE/ Black (-)200mA Aux 3 Output (As i will need them if i want to install window modules or any other accessories that are controlled by the R/S unit remote), also the same for H2/6 WHITE/ Violet (-)200mA Aux 1 Output if I don't need the DBALL panic wire anymore H2/16 Blue/White (-) 200 mA 2nd Status / Rear defogger output (to operate the rear windshield defogger of the car if i want to through a latched relay control (On/off)

If i remove the D2D wire i will loose the following options FOB-Control of after market alarm with OEM remote + SS-Entry monitoring of driver door pin So is it a must to remove D2D wire or can i leave it connected too

Sorry i am asking to much but i am installing the system tomorrow after noon and continue after tomorrow. Only the DBALL and R/S unit. The Sirens and other sirens plus the sensors the week after

H2/12 Orange (-) 200 mA Accessory output H2/13 Purple (-) 200 mA Starter output H2/14 Pink (-) 200 mA Ignition 1 output Any of these loom away and insulate, future use? H2/16 BLACK/ White (-) Neutral safety input (as my car is automatic) Must connect to ground or DB-ALL (refer to your diagram). H3/2 RED / White (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 2 / Flex relay Input 87 MUST CONNECT H3/6 Red (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 1 Input Ditto H3/9 RED / Black (+) Fused (30A) Accessory / starter input Ditto