relay to make n/c into n/o output trigger

Okay here's the deal:I have a JeepI have a car alarm which has both n/o and n/c triggers in it's built-in relay for locking the doors when armed and after putting keys into the ignition.I have 2 power window roll-up modules with 500mA activation triggers (neg) and accessory leads (to prevent trigger when car is in use)problem:door locks and window modules both trigger by way of the normally open, closed @ lock lead on the alarm. (GREEN/ Black wire) However, the window module is causing me nightmares. when it's connected I have the following problems:-once doors are closed, doors lock and refuse to release their locked state till keys are removed.windows roll up when doors are closed.. etc etcattempted solutions:isolated window module completely by placing an isolating 1n4004 diode on both activation AND accessory leads. no joy, same promlem (how the locks and alarm even SEE the window module at that point is frickin' beyond me.. the diodes should make that damned thing invisible to eveything but the windows)various other ideas none of which worked. Okay here's what I want to try. In an attempt to completely isolate the window modules from the door locks so they have NOTHING to do with one another aside from both being tied into the alarm, I propose the following:using a relay, take the alarm relay's normally-CLOSED-open @ lock output (neg) and convert it into the same as the GREEN/ black output (n/o, closed @ lock) and let the windows use that trigger, and let the door locks use the normal trigger.. thus letting them not see each other even at the alarm.QUESTION:how do I wire a relay to switch from a n/c circuit to one that is n/o, then tie in the 500mA activation line from the window modules to that relay so that upon arming the alarm, when it sends it's pulse to the door locks, the n/c wire (violet/black) will trip the relay, reversing it's actual state for the window module so that in the end, both the violet/black and the GREEN/ black wires from the alarm relay will appear to be n/o, closed @ lock.make sense? good! now how is it done? this is starting to really, REALLY piss me off. hahathanks :)-GlassWolf

Pioneer Stage-4, Orion, DynAudio, Fi

Is the door locks and the window triggers on the same wire coming from the alarm ?yes, and because that is the only negative on armed trigger from the BCM.If so, why ?? Do you want the windows to go up when armed ?exactly why. when I arm the alarm i want all 4 windows to roll up. therefore both window modules are tied into the door-lock on arm trigger. both of my aux functions are in use already and I want it to be done on-arm as this was put in primarily for my mom who is forgetful and religiously arms the alarm but forgets and leaves the back windows down sometimes hehIf not, then what module are you using for the window roll up ?I have two generic window roll-up modules (2 windows each) wired into an ungo MS2004 alarm.This is in my 94 grand cherokee.I figured if I can reverse the n/c output of the doorlock relay built into the alarm, it'll give me a second isolated trigger for the window modules so they'll quit causing me nightmares with the door locks.-GlassWolf

Pioneer Stage-4, Orion, DynAudio, Fi

this may help:MS2004 wiring harness/codes:RED                    Main Power +12V inputBROWN                    Siren +12V outputWHITE                    Parking Light Flash Relay +12V outputYELLOW/BLUE               Auxiliary Function-2 (-) outputBLUE/WHITE               Driver’s Door Lock Priority (-)BROWN / WHITE               Alarming / Horn Honk (-) 12V output (requires relay)ORANGE               Sensor Defeat (-) inputBLUE                    Hood / Trunk (-) inputBLACK/ WHITE               Dome Light (-) output (requires relay)YELLOW/WHITE          Auxiliary Function-1 (-) outputYELLOW               Ignition Key +12V inputBLACK                    Chassis GroundVIOLET               Door Trigger (+) inputGREEN                    Door Trigger (-) inputBROWN (12 gauge spade terminals)     Starter KillBLACK (10A fuse) to BLUE/BLACK     n/o, closed @ unlockBLACK (10A fuse) to GREEN/ BLACK     n/o, closed @ lockGREEN/ BLACK to WHITE/ BLACK     n/c, open @ unlockBLUE/BLACK to VIOLET/BLACK          n/c, open @ lockcurrently, both the windows and locks are triggered using the GREEN/ BLACK wire. even using diodes to isolate the window modules from everything so they should have NO output to the alarm, they stikll cause nightmares with the locks, I even tried using a relay to increase output current for activation triggers with no luck.they flat out will not cooperate with each other.I need to find a way to essentially create a second trigger line from the alarm to roll up the windows on arm.-GlassWolf

Pioneer Stage-4, Orion, DynAudio, Fi

first time I've wired these, and they had no documentation at ALL.when i was doing this for a living, nobody wanted to pay $200+ for the power window option on an alarm ten years ago.things got a lot cheaper when the internet caught on.. hehI'll give it a shot.-GlassWolf

Pioneer Stage-4, Orion, DynAudio, Fi

No luck therestarter kill circuit (loop on alarm BCM) is normally closed.. in fact trying it on a DMM it's ALWAYS closed.alarm armed, disarmed, tripped.. always closed.I connected the window module to the starter kill loop, and the moment the keys hit the accessory position the Jeep (manual trans) tried to jump into the utility room from a standing start.Discovered that connecting power window module to starter kill causes the car to try starting itself the moment the keys are turned one click forward.anyway on to any more ideas?Starter Kill does in fact work, after testing it out (tried to start car with keys when alarm was tripped. no go)However, when connecting the 500mA activation line of the window modules to this loop, it has rather bad results as noted above.what am I doing wrong here?-GlassWolf

Pioneer Stage-4, Orion, DynAudio, Fi

Jeff, what exactly did ya have in mind by wiring these to the starter kill loop? directly tapping into it? using a relay?the modules use a 500mA activation triggerThey also have an "accessory" line which I connected to ignition. I'm under the impression this wire is supposed to be connected to an accessory-position +12V when keys are in wire so as not to trigger window modules when car is on?-GlassWolf

Pioneer Stage-4, Orion, DynAudio, Fi