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How do I bi-amp componets?


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Steven Kephart 
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Posted: June 07, 2005 at 4:50 PM / IP Logged  

sedate wrote:
Steven Kephart:
I don't know if we're on the same page.. when I say "midbass" i mean 5.25 componet speaker.. if you are distinguishing between "midbass" and "midrange" .. I'm not.. I thought they were, in this particular application anyway, the same thing.
I'm not sure what you mean "going with a 3-way using midbasses." I can't use a 6.5" speaker b/c the 5.25's are already crammed in 4" holes! I don't mod the car itself... its one of my "Install Rules" (i.e., must have spare tire accessible, no cutting metal, etc.) 

Ah, I totally misunderstood you then.  I'm sorry about that.  When you said midbass, I though you were going to use one in conjunction with a midrange which is typicaly the case. 

sedate wrote:
I already know to avoid metal coned tweeters... what materials would you recommend? I can't grab that article you posted "The Administrator(s) have not granted you sufficient permissions to view the Article Section."

Metal coned tweeters can be fine because on a good tweeter the resonances are above the audible spectrum.  My comments were mainly for midranges.  My link points to an online magazine where my boss answers different user questions.  Here's a copy of the important parts:

Hobbes26 asked: How do you match tweeters to a given midrange woofer, and vice versa? What main parameters and characteristics must be taken into account? And how does this affect the crossover you build for them?

Number one criteria – bandwidth. The tweeter must play low enough to mate with the mid. Otherwise you’ll have hole in the response. I look for the tweeter to play flat down to the top of the clean response region of the mid, or a bit lower.
Number two: price. Don’t match an $80 tweeter with a $10 woofer – your money is better distributed between the two drivers. Likewise a $10 tweeter usually isn’t worth considering with an $80 mid. Again, spend a little less on the mid to buy a better tweeter. And yes, you typically DO get what you pay for with mids and tweeters!
Next I make sure the tweeter has the same type of sonics as the mid – efficiency (tweeters are nearly always hotter than the mid, so this isn’t too difficult), dispersion around the crossover point, distortion characteristics, etc.
Crossover isn’t too affected – I’m a big fan of high order crossovers. Rarely do I find a tweeter or driver that can’t be easily crossed over. Higher order crossovers not only lower power compression, lobing, THD, IMD, and other issues, but having all those components makes it MUCH easier to equalize the response (called “voicing” if you’re a high end speaker designer) of the driver.
I’m not too concerned with a flat response; I can EQ/voice the response as desired. I’d gladly accept some FR anomalies if the driver has wider bandwidth, or lower compression and distortion.
Hobbes26 also follows up with: What considerations do you take into account when choosing cones/surrounds for a particular driver? Strength? Resonances? Edge treatments? Looks? Profile? How do you find one that's right for the application?
-    Cone must be stiff enough to not break up under maximum excursion. Pistonic behavior on the bottom end, please!
-    Cone should be fairly break-up free. I don’t mind a breakup that is a dip; breakups that are peaks are bad (in terms of sonics, a dip is MUCH better than a peak).
-    Looks should be plain, understated. We sell a LOT of drivers to OEMs who use our drivers in their own products. Having a unique look means it’s easy for your competitors or the general consumers to identify who supplies your driver, and that may not be a good thing. A plain, hard to identify driver is a bonus here.
-    Surrounds should be as soft as possible. I want the stiffness of my suspension in the spider, thank you very much! There’s lots of reasons for this, including linearity, but it also leads to a surround that better terminates edge resonances and reflections of the cone.
-    Edge treatments should be used sparingly, and only when needed. When pushing a 4” cone to 10+ kHz sometimes you HAVE to add some extra damping on the cone. I prefer to put it on the underside, so it’s not visible and doesn’t collect dust, but sometimes you don’t have a choice but to place it on the front (at the surround/cone junction).
-    I go with the old doctor’s maxim: first do no harm. Don’t work with metal cones if at all possible because of the heavy breakup modes. Paper, poly, the softer materials are well damped, stiff enough for pistonic behavior, and in general don’t do anything bad. Some materials do some things better, but always (at least in my experience) have serious flaws. Rather than shoot for an “A” grade in 4 characteristics and a “C” in two others, I’ll go for a straight “B+” across the board.
-    Choice of cone actually depends upon the application. Moving mass, size, excursion limits, bandwidth, radiation pattern, voice coil diameter, basket choice, and price all will guide the choice of cone. There’s no magic choice for all applications – it needs to be made on a case-by-case basis.

sedate wrote:
  What about the two speakers I posted above? You have any thoughts on those?

Looking at the CDT speaker, there are some things that concern me.  They say they use stainless steel for their top plate and backplate, which is extremely high carbon steel and has very poor magnetic properties.  In speakers you want softer, low carbon steel.  I tried going to their website to check the parameters to see what the Qes and BL are, but for some reason their website must be down right now.  Here are some other things I notice about it:

"flat spider-allows a consistently linear cone excursion"  Actually you normally don't get a linear response with a flat spider.  Progressive spiders are what provide a linear response.

"frequency response 65Hz-7kHz flat(6.5-octave response)" They don't specify how flat.  I'd really like to see a response curve of that. 

"Sensitivity 92.00 dB (2.83V)"  Note that this is not a 1 watt measurement.  It kind of bugs me when companies rate their speakers like that.

And now the ID mid.  I checked ID's site and unfortunately couldn't find parameters for it there.  However they did give some good information.  One thing to note is that their RE is up at 1.8 ohms, which would make this driver closer to a 3 ohm nominal impedance rather than the rated 2 ohms.  The phase plug might help it have a smoother upper response, but unfortunately they don't provide a response curve. 

Steven Kephart

Adire Audio

haemphyst 
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Posted: June 07, 2005 at 5:28 PM / IP Logged  
In response to your question regarding the beaming...
ANY driver will begin to beam when you begin to run a frequency through it that is SHORTER than the diameter of the driver. Beaming is really just a reduction of output in the of-axis response, relative to the on-axis response. If you have ever seen a polar response plot, THAT is beaming. (I'll check the 'net and see if I can find one for an example...)
http://www.umiacs.umd.edu/~djue/HP001.AppendixA.htm
http://www.libinst.com/polartxt.htm
http://www.umiacs.umd.edu/~djue/HP001.Wavefronts.htm
Beaming contributes to lobing, which is also explained in the above documents. Lobing is a manifestation of constuctive and destructive interference patterns from two diaphragms reproducing different bands of frequencies. The more a diaphragm beams, the WORSE the "sound power" will be in the space being filled. Sound Power is basically described as "how even is the frequency response in all three dimensions" Are there severe dips or peaks in the response as you move up to down, side to side, or back to front (in the space)? Since there is NO magic driver, that can do 20 to 20K, this is why we use multiple drivers, BUT you'll notice that most often, we sit IN FRONT of them... The car SUCKS for true high-fidelity, simply because of the off axis responses that are so severe to every person in the car. It is impossible for all four people in the car to have "the best seat in the house" - physics don't allow it. The best we can hope for is perfect, full-range response at the center of the car, at ear height (as long as everybody's ear height is the same) and everybody then gets the same amount of shift, beam, combing, etc., etc. All the things that happen while listening to a speaker system off-axis. That's just the way it is, unfortunately.
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
sedate 
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Posted: June 09, 2005 at 12:08 AM / IP Logged  
Steven Kephart wrote:

[

sedate wrote:
  What about the two speakers I posted above? You have any thoughts on those?

Looking at the CDT speaker, there are some things that concern me.  They say they use stainless steel for their top plate and backplate, which is extremely high carbon steel and has very poor magnetic properties.  In speakers you want softer, low carbon steel.  I tried going to their website to check the parameters to see what the Qes and BL are, but for some reason their website must be down right now.  Here are some other things I notice about it:

"flat spider-allows a consistently linear cone excursion"  Actually you normally don't get a linear response with a flat spider.  Progressive spiders are what provide a linear response.

"frequency response 65Hz-7kHz flat(6.5-octave response)" They don't specify how flat.  I'd really like to see a response curve of that. 

"Sensitivity 92.00 dB (2.83V)"  Note that this is not a 1 watt measurement.  It kind of bugs me when companies rate their speakers like that.

And now the ID mid.  I checked ID's site and unfortunately couldn't find parameters for it there.  However they did give some good information.  One thing to note is that their RE is up at 1.8 ohms, which would make this driver closer to a 3 ohm nominal impedance rather than the rated 2 ohms.  The phase plug might help it have a smoother upper response, but unfortunately they don't provide a response curve. 

That doesn't come across very positive for the CDT... huh.  I've read a bunch of message boards.. lotsa word-of-mouth stuff about their HD series of componets.  Out of this world, supposedly.  What is your sense of CDT?  When I learned about the company from my internet travelings, I was delighted to learn they make their speakers in a town I lived in out California ways.  Made me instantly partial.. ya understand.

Yea that response curve claim does seem really odd, especially with what all hamfist discusses above.  I'm still trying to get a sense for what a typical range is for tweeters and midbasses/midranges..  

What is a 2.83v measurement mean? What is it comparable to? I've seen other companies rate thier stuff like that.. I've seen JBL stuff rated like that.  I guess somewhere along the line I figured it was another way of saying 1w/1m but I dunno how to ohms-law 2.83v... since I don't have an amp measurement.

The ID mid looks okay huh?  After I grab that EQX from hamfist I was really thinking of that ID mid and the ID NX30 silk dome tweet for my front end.  That stuff looks wicked to me. The only thing that I was worried about was the lower xover point on the mid than we've been discussing here... I'm *really* paranoid of bright speakers.. I've always been kinda sensitive to that and I've read when you have more sounds coming from your mids that frequently contributes to speakers sounding ...'warmer'... if you will.  From what all you and hamfist have said here, that's a load of crap huh?  Why do *so many* componet sets sound so bright to me?  With an EQ like that AudioControl I'd be able to edit that out nicely anyway though? 

hamfist:

Well lemmie ask ya this then... why come so many competition cars I've seen coming out of the two local performance shops always stack speakers next to each other.. like this:

How do I bi-amp componets? - Page 3 -- posted image.

What is that?  I've seen like 3 custom fiberglass jobs that look *just* like this.  What about the dash mounted tweeters along with it?

How do I bi-amp componets? - Page 3 -- posted image.

From what ur saying that is completely retarded?  Why do they do that? Do they just spend hours with an RTA and an EQ to perfect the reponse b/c it would natively be so peaky? 

"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview
Steven Kephart 
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Posted: June 09, 2005 at 2:54 AM / IP Logged  

sedate wrote:
  That doesn't come across very positive for the CDT... huh.  I've read a bunch of message boards.. lotsa word-of-mouth stuff about their HD series of componets.  Out of this world, supposedly.  What is your sense of CDT?  When I learned about the company from my internet travelings, I was delighted to learn they make their speakers in a town I lived in out California ways.  Made me instantly partial.. ya understand.

Don't get me wrong, it might be a great driver.  I was just commenting on what I noticed on that sales page.  Those are things I would check on to see what is actually going on. 

sedate wrote:
Yea that response curve claim does seem really odd, especially with what all hamfist discusses above.  I'm still trying to get a sense for what a typical range is for tweeters and midbasses/midranges..  

Usually you don't want to run a 6.5" driver above around 3k because that's where beaming becomes an issue.  Of course the install will make a huge impact on this.  5.25" speakers can go a little higher though.  Tweeter bandwidth depends on the size and type of diaphragm.  Larger tweeters can usually play lower, but might start to beam within the audible range, or their response might not naturally extend all the way up.  If you try to run a tweeter too low, you will limit it's peak output capabilities.  One way around this is to use steeper slopes. 

sedate wrote:
What is a 2.83v measurement mean? What is it comparable to? I've seen other companies rate thier stuff like that.. I've seen JBL stuff rated like that.  I guess somewhere along the line I figured it was another way of saying 1w/1m but I dunno how to ohms-law 2.83v... since I don't have an amp measurement.

2.83 volts supplied to an 8 ohm driver would be 1 watt.  However that same voltage applied to a 4 ohm driver would actually be 2 watts.  It's a way some car audio companies fudge the numbers to give their products inflated sensitivities. 

sedate wrote:
 I'm *really* paranoid of bright speakers.. I've always been kinda sensitive to that and I've read when you have more sounds coming from your mids that frequently contributes to speakers sounding ...'warmer'... if you will.  From what all you and hamfist have said here, that's a load of crap huh?

Actually that is true.  Your ears are most sensitive to the midrange frequencies.  And when a speaker system has a boost in this area the speakers will sound more "warm". 

sedate wrote:
Why do *so many* componet sets sound so bright to me?  With an EQ like that AudioControl I'd be able to edit that out nicely anyway though? 

It's either because that's how they were voiced, or because of the install.  As an example, our components use a metal tweeter that is very smooth because it was voiced that way.  However if you install the tweeter on-axis it becomes very bright and harsh.  It's because they were desiged to be installed off axis in the bottom of the doors.  The idea of using the EQ when going active is so you can "voice" the speakers yourself. 

sedate wrote:
hamfist:

Well lemmie ask ya this then... why come so many competition cars I've seen coming out of the two local performance shops always stack speakers next to each other.. like this:

How do I bi-amp componets? - Page 3 -- posted image.

What is that?  I've seen like 3 custom fiberglass jobs that look *just* like this.  What about the dash mounted tweeters along with it?

How do I bi-amp componets? - Page 3 -- posted image.

From what ur saying that is completely retarded?  Why do they do that? Do they just spend hours with an RTA and an EQ to perfect the reponse b/c it would natively be so peaky? 

I think those are examples of when form over-rule function.  They care more about how "pretty" the install is rather than how it sounds.  In the top one if both mids actually play the same bandwidth, then you would have nasty comb filtering issues.  The bottom one probably wouldn't be as bad if they used proper processing to fix the lobing issues that would develop.  However depending on how far in the tweeter is mounted, their soundstage would most likely be limited to that width. 

Steven Kephart

Adire Audio

haemphyst 
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Posted: June 09, 2005 at 9:08 AM / IP Logged  
(Dave nods) Pretty sells... Output... That, and two MUST be better than one, right? Those configurations would have TERRIBLE horizontal dispersion. With a proper application of time delay, (this would require dedicated amplification on each mid-woofer) you MIGHT be able to steer the response around a little but it is never going to sound as good (at least to me) as a well implemented two or three way setup in the door...
In the bottom one, I think it would really depend on:
1. where the crossover point is and
2. it's output relative to the rest of the system.
The above notwithstanding, it is still going to add terrible combing effects to the soundfield. It MIGHT (if that's dash-mounted as it appears) raise the soundstage, but it won't sound really "real", I think. Too many missed and/or summed spatial cues...
First off, I am not a big fan of "surround sound" anywhere, (let alone in the car...) and a quasi center channel of something like that shown above, in the opinion of this reporter, shouldn't sound as good as it looks. (and here I was going to say something here about surround and/or 5.1 in the car, but I don't know enough about it - being a stereo guy, AKA 2 channel, so I'll reserve judgement)
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
DYohn 
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Posted: June 09, 2005 at 10:03 AM / IP Logged  

Those doors look like a modified MTM D'Appolito configuration to me.  A gimick in a car door for sure.  The JL super tweeter may have a function as described above, but again more likely it's a show car gimick.  Show cars are always FULL of gimicks gadgets and gee-gas with little or no actual function.  I once saw a car (forget what kind) that had ten or twelve mids in each door.  The door panel was literally full of drivers.  Looked cool.  The problem was only one was actually hooked to an amplifier so it would create acceptable sound quality.  The rest were there for show.  :)

One other comment: the only place I've ever heard a metal-dome tweet and liked the sound was in a car.  Sometimes they can be a perfect solution for the horrible acoustic environment and road noise intrusion of a car.  So try it before you rule it out, if you can.

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tcss 
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Posted: June 09, 2005 at 11:36 AM / IP Logged  
Comment on 5.1 in the car: have Alpines 5.1 system in our display board, they have a demo disc that switches between stereo and 5.1 at 10 sec. intervals on the same track, very impressive. The problem right now/ you can fit the available 5.1 audio discs in a shoebox.
haemphyst 
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Posted: June 09, 2005 at 5:02 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah... That's what I've noticed too... No program material makes it REALLY hard to implement multi-channel well. Stereo recordings need to be played in stereo, and there are not many DVD-A (none that I am aware of) players around to support reasonably recorded multi-channel discs.
That brings up this question: Does anybody here know of a DVD-A compatible car player?
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Steven Kephart 
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Posted: June 09, 2005 at 6:45 PM / IP Logged  

My boss wanted to take apart an SACD player and modify it to work in his vehicle.  I thought that would be fun to hear. 

Steven Kephart

Adire Audio

tcss 
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Posted: June 09, 2005 at 7:08 PM / IP Logged  
Alpines  IVA D 301 with the PXA h 701 processer is DVD A compatable. We have it set up with surround sound speakers in our showroom and with Alpine's DVD A disc it sounds pretty damn incredable. Can't wait for the 1/2 DIN center channel gets here.
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