sedate wrote:
Steven Kephart: I don't know if we're on the same page.. when I say "midbass" i mean 5.25 componet speaker.. if you are distinguishing between "midbass" and "midrange" .. I'm not.. I thought they were, in this particular application anyway, the same thing. I'm not sure what you mean "going with a 3-way using midbasses." I can't use a 6.5" speaker b/c the 5.25's are already crammed in 4" holes! I don't mod the car itself... its one of my "Install Rules" (i.e., must have spare tire accessible, no cutting metal, etc.) |
|
|
Ah, I totally misunderstood you then. I'm sorry about that. When you said midbass, I though you were going to use one in conjunction with a midrange which is typicaly the case.
sedate wrote:
I already know to avoid metal coned tweeters... what materials would you recommend? I can't grab that article you posted "The Administrator(s) have not granted you sufficient permissions to view the Article Section." |
|
|
Metal coned tweeters can be fine because on a good tweeter the resonances are above the audible spectrum. My comments were mainly for midranges. My link points to an online magazine where my boss answers different user questions. Here's a copy of the important parts:
Hobbes26 asked: How do you match tweeters to a given midrange woofer, and vice versa? What main parameters and characteristics must be taken into account? And how does this affect the crossover you build for them?Number one criteria – bandwidth. The tweeter must play low enough to mate with the mid. Otherwise you’ll have hole in the response. I look for the tweeter to play flat down to the top of the clean response region of the mid, or a bit lower.Number two: price. Don’t match an $80 tweeter with a $10 woofer – your money is better distributed between the two drivers. Likewise a $10 tweeter usually isn’t worth considering with an $80 mid. Again, spend a little less on the mid to buy a better tweeter. And yes, you typically DO get what you pay for with mids and tweeters!Next I make sure the tweeter has the same type of sonics as the mid – efficiency (tweeters are nearly always hotter than the mid, so this isn’t too difficult), dispersion around the crossover point, distortion characteristics, etc.Crossover isn’t too affected – I’m a big fan of high order crossovers. Rarely do I find a tweeter or driver that can’t be easily crossed over. Higher order crossovers not only lower power compression, lobing, THD, IMD, and other issues, but having all those components makes it MUCH easier to equalize the response (called “voicing” if you’re a high end speaker designer) of the driver.I’m not too concerned with a flat response; I can EQ/voice the response as desired. I’d gladly accept some FR anomalies if the driver has wider bandwidth, or lower compression and distortion.
Hobbes26 also follows up with: What considerations do you take into account when choosing cones/surrounds for a particular driver? Strength? Resonances? Edge treatments? Looks? Profile? How do you find one that's right for the application?
- Cone must be stiff enough to not break up under maximum excursion. Pistonic behavior on the bottom end, please!- Cone should be fairly break-up free. I don’t mind a breakup that is a dip; breakups that are peaks are bad (in terms of sonics, a dip is MUCH better than a peak).- Looks should be plain, understated. We sell a LOT of drivers to OEMs who use our drivers in their own products. Having a unique look means it’s easy for your competitors or the general consumers to identify who supplies your driver, and that may not be a good thing. A plain, hard to identify driver is a bonus here.- Surrounds should be as soft as possible. I want the stiffness of my suspension in the spider, thank you very much! There’s lots of reasons for this, including linearity, but it also leads to a surround that better terminates edge resonances and reflections of the cone.- Edge treatments should be used sparingly, and only when needed. When pushing a 4” cone to 10+ kHz sometimes you HAVE to add some extra damping on the cone. I prefer to put it on the underside, so it’s not visible and doesn’t collect dust, but sometimes you don’t have a choice but to place it on the front (at the surround/cone junction).- I go with the old doctor’s maxim: first do no harm. Don’t work with metal cones if at all possible because of the heavy breakup modes. Paper, poly, the softer materials are well damped, stiff enough for pistonic behavior, and in general don’t do anything bad. Some materials do some things better, but always (at least in my experience) have serious flaws. Rather than shoot for an “A” grade in 4 characteristics and a “C” in two others, I’ll go for a straight “B+” across the board.- Choice of cone actually depends upon the application. Moving mass, size, excursion limits, bandwidth, radiation pattern, voice coil diameter, basket choice, and price all will guide the choice of cone. There’s no magic choice for all applications – it needs to be made on a case-by-case basis.
sedate wrote:
What about the two speakers I posted above? You have any thoughts on those? |
|
|
Looking at the CDT speaker, there are some things that concern me. They say they use stainless steel for their top plate and backplate, which is extremely high carbon steel and has very poor magnetic properties. In speakers you want softer, low carbon steel. I tried going to their website to check the parameters to see what the Qes and BL are, but for some reason their website must be down right now. Here are some other things I notice about it:
"flat spider-allows a consistently linear cone excursion" Actually you normally don't get a linear response with a flat spider. Progressive spiders are what provide a linear response.
"frequency response 65Hz-7kHz flat(6.5-octave response)" They don't specify how flat. I'd really like to see a response curve of that.
"Sensitivity 92.00 dB (2.83V)" Note that this is not a 1 watt measurement. It kind of bugs me when companies rate their speakers like that.
And now the ID mid. I checked ID's site and unfortunately couldn't find parameters for it there. However they did give some good information. One thing to note is that their RE is up at 1.8 ohms, which would make this driver closer to a 3 ohm nominal impedance rather than the rated 2 ohms. The phase plug might help it have a smoother upper response, but unfortunately they don't provide a response curve.
Steven Kephart
Adire Audio